Austarion

What turbo to use on a SOHC 2L to make 300rwhp (225rwkw) ?

Have forged bottom end, stage 2 cam, ported head, MPI, FMIC, custom exhaust manifold etc to support higher boost (mid 20's psi)... not sure on max rpms but around 7,000rpm?


Still want a a good usable power curve, not too peaky in power

GT28RS (think thats the Disco Potato one) should do the trick.
Used on SR20s they are suppose to be quite responsive and have great midrange.

a big 16G td05 will make those numbers at the treads, a small 16g td05 will too (may have to lean on it hard thou - will be bordering on pumping hot air)

a 20G will would probably do i really good job! ask MRB1!

first thing is do not use the standard turbo or get hi flowed,get a garret ballbearing turbo,good custom inlet and exhaust manifold ,get a motec or
autronic computer,not sure about other ecu's.the problem with cheaper ecu's is you spend more on tuning it,as where could spent that tuning money on a better ecu.i have a BB turbo for about 3 years now no problems,get a good intercooler,not a cheap chinese one,there are alot more things to buy,a 300hp@wheels is not a overnite job,i hope you got plenty of money.
regards david

I agree with Dave, Once you have driven Starion with Ball Bearing Garrett you will forget all about mitsubishi turbos..

im sure u dont forget about the price tag that goes with a BB Turbo!

If you were worried about cost of a BB turbo you wouldnt be building a 300hp Starion.

a price on a ballbearing turbo garret 450hp cost about $1550,look up Ray Hall website for a price or email rotomaster in melbourne

I wouldn't be knocking the big 16g to much as they are quite a good turbo in my opinion.Yes i have a gt30r with a .82 rear but i also have a big 16g on my gsr and can tell you that it is excellent.Mitsubishi still use a tdo6 on the current evo's except spinning the other way and i know of a guy who put a gt30 on his evo 9 and lost 500rpm of his powerband.The compressor maps are made to suit this engine and there peak efficiency is around the 20-25psi range. Also i believe that they used titanium wheels on some models.Im sure Mrb1 is the man to speak to in regards to the ins and outs but this turbo has been around through the entire evolution series.Im not trying to argue with anyone i just thought i would put in my 2 cents as i own both.

JD_Stazza_Brendan wrote:I agree with Dave, Once you have driven Starion with Ball Bearing Garrett you will forget all about mitsubishi turbos..

That's a bit mis-guided.......

MRB1 has made the point elsewhere, the Garrett rotating assemblies are A LOT heavier then similar sized MHI Turbo's, so regardless of the fact that the Garrett's are BB and MHI are not, I think you'll find the response times pretty much the same

Anyhow, definitely the 20G Turbo from MRB1, proven time and time again on a lot of AWD 4G63 here in Australia to sweet spot 300RwHp.

But, hang-on you've already done the Exhaust and manifold, so yeah you'll have to stick with the Garrett type, look on their catalog towards the end to make sure the flanges you've already got made, match the Turbo you pick.

One trick I'ld advise you to do if you can be bothered messing about with it, is shortening the runners on the MPI Manifold. With some clever thinking, you should be able to do this without too much headaches....

You do theoretically need a larger plenum on it, but I think you might be able to get away with it.

www.18u wrote:Also i believe that they used titanium wheels on some models.

Yep. On some of the later turbos they use these (on the RS models I believe) to promote the use of anti lag without totally blitzing the turbo.

to make 300hpatw you turbo will need to supply at least 36 pounds of air measured by weight not psi

about 90% can't be wrong when they are running garrett BB cores. hks greddy/trust use them as do the GTxxxx R or Z modle garrett items. garrett has been building jet engines for over 40 years no i would trust their product over any other brand.



i would sugest a garrett GT2876R 480hp part NO. GT2876R - 705330-2 with a .86 rear, i'm using one of these on a home made stainless manifold. if you find the response a bit dull then you can simply swap to a .64 rear housing, but you will find this will be borderline small for 300 ponies atw.

to make 300 on this turbo you will need to run around 18 -21 psi of boost and deliver about 3 pounds of fuel per minute.

after my cousin gets back from the USA, we're putting a camtech stage 3 cam and haltech E6X on the orange car (yes he owns it now) so we can crack the 300hp mark at the wheels. should EASILY achieve it with the KKR430, as at the moment that engine has a STOCK cam, and a 1993 model MOTEC fuel only ecu, with the STOCK starion ignition system.

basically yes it has standard ignition maps(ie mechanical advance/boost retard) and a computer that has only light load, full load and boost maps (yes thats a whole 3 load points) every 500rpm. not exactly the best for big power, so i'm pretty confident that car will be doing mid 12's before the end of the year. if he doesnt kill himself in the bloody thing :?

it currently made 276hp at the wheels and did a flat 13 quarter mile, and it sits u back in your seat from 2800rpm.. tapers off at 6000 or so. should make power to 7000rpm with the new cam.

toysrus wrote:

JD_Stazza_Brendan wrote:I agree with Dave, Once you have driven Starion with Ball Bearing Garrett you will forget all about mitsubishi turbos..

That's a bit mis-guided.......

MRB1 has made the point elsewhere, the Garrett rotating assemblies are A LOT heavier then similar sized MHI Turbo's, so regardless of the fact that the Garrett's are BB and MHI are not, I think you'll find the response times pretty much the same

Anyhow, definitely the 20G Turbo from MRB1, proven time and time again on a lot of AWD 4G63 here in Australia to sweet spot 300RwHp.

But, hang-on you've already done the Exhaust and manifold, so yeah you'll have to stick with the Garrett type, look on their catalog towards the end to make sure the flanges you've already got made, match the Turbo you pick.

One trick I'ld advise you to do if you can be bothered messing about with it, is shortening the runners on the MPI Manifold. With some clever thinking, you should be able to do this without too much headaches....

You do theoretically need a larger plenum on it, but I think you might be able to get away with it.

But i like how daves car come onto boost STRAIGHT AWAY and pulls harder then a freight train all the way to redline.

Also knowing Tomsun has a T3 flange on his car MHI turbos wont go on without a bit of mucking around. Thats why i suggested Garrett BB