Austarion

hi guys, quick one for ya. sounds like a stupid question but thought i'd check.

not that i normally do this, or drive like a tugger,
but i just cant spin the wheels, ie burnout.

if i pile on the revs and dump the clutch the car just sits there revving and not moving, then moves off slowly.

however, the clutch never slips when driving, its totally fine.

time to start saving for a new one?

chiefbrody wrote: time to start saving for a new one?

Yep, sounds like pressure plate to me.

Yep, you need to change the pressure plate/clutch.

However, if you really want to do burnouts now, just oil your tyres first

LOL

Cheers guys

Not too interested in doing burnouts, I only just bought it a couple of weeks ago and I have some other problems too with sky high oil pressure and poor running, so I've been driving it ultra conservatively :D

And it does work fine when driving 'normally' hence why it took me a while to realise I couldnt smoke the tyres :D

- though the clutch does suddenly bite hard and left me kangaroo hopping down the motorway in slow traffic after I picked it up - never driven one before so thought it just took a while to master the clutch


Cheers, looking for parts now so will get it done

chiefbrody wrote:LOL

Not too interested in doing burnouts, I only just bought it a couple of weeks ago and I have some other problems too with sky high oil pressure and poor running, so I've been driving it ultra conservatively :D

if the motor isn't healthy or there are other problems to get the power to do a burn out ( depending on the health of the clutch ) you may have to heal/toe so the revs don't drop too much and the brake stops the car from moving and ease the clutch with a final pop at the end...... you motor might not have the ability anymore to make low down torque to keep the revs up even when dropping it from 5k

sure the oil pressure isnt just a stuffed pressure sender? thats how mine is, soon as i turn ignition on it goes all way to top of gauge and rarely moves

yeah, could be. Thats what I think; although once the cars warmed up it does drop to around halfway, then it fluctuates as per however I'm driving, but stays around halfway to 3/4. I dont know enough about how the sender actually works to know whether it could work when warm and not when cold

I would say half - 3/4 is normal.

Haha at the risk of getting flammed here...

Sender unit has no idea of oil temp. Works purely
on pressure. There is more oil pressure when cold as
the oil is thicker.

You could try another pressure sender / cluster.
Also probably not a bad idea to do a oil change
and put some good oil in it. I know that Smoke Stop
Treatment sends oil pressure sky high.. personal experience.

I didnt think the oil pressure sender would know what temp it was, I just didnt know how it would seem to work when warm but not when cold. I didnt think cold oil would make that much of a difference but concluded that seen as it worked when warm then it must be working, unless something else strange was hapepning :?

Although when cold, and oil pressure is registering top of the guage, I would have thought it would pop th edipstick out or something. I remove the dipstick and give it a rev and no difference to oil pressure, so it cant be that high surely? :?

I was thinking maybe a small blockage somewhere that is causing higher pressure when cold, then going away as everything warms up and gets all flexible like :P

lol this reminds me of the time i stripped my clutch...
dropped it in 1st spinnin real good...
nabed 2nd and there was so much smoke....
from under the car :x
so i got a brass button :D

Electric oil presure senders can become erratic with age (like me :( ) so you have 2 options get new sender or as i did install a new mecanical gauge that will tell u once & 4 all if u have other issues 2 fix