Austarion

Chucked in my new cam (camtech stage 2 regrind) last thursday. I put it in aligned how the data with the cam recomended, seemed great at the top end but was a little lacklustre down low.. Advanced the cam timing a couple of degrees today and bam, car goes nuts from about 2 1/2K to the redline and at least as good as factory below those revs. A significant improvement from the factory cam.

I haven't changed the valve springs over, don't know if I will now. I have a set of camtech doubleys to go in but the factory springs seem to be doing a fine job as it is, I'm not planning on revving much over 6K anyway. If anybody wants them $88 plus postage is what I paid for them, they're brand new, pm if interested.

The standard cam was fairly crap above 5K (no power at all) but it was either dialed in a little too advanced or it's just not a good shape for making power above those revs.

i would go with not a good shape for making power above those revs.

Does anyone know how to dial in cam specs into a haltec ecu?

It's not a matter of dialing the cam specs into the ECU, it's more a matter of recalibrating your ECU to match the new cam. The engine's volumetric efficiency changes, meaning that for the same manifold pressure measurement more or less air is being pumped. This means that the fueling needs to be altered to get the mixtures right, and also the timing needs to be changed since the cylinder pressures have changed.
Did you map your ECU in the first place or did it get done on a dyno?

I had it done on a dyno, so I suppose I wont bother changing a cam until I redo the fueling system

jakobsladderz...

When you "car goes nuts from about 2 1/2K to the redline and at least as good as factory below those revs."

what rpms at redline?
and where and when does the power seam to taper off??

At a ball park figure would you say that you have picked up 5%, 10%, 20% power at the top end??

I can't wait to get my cam in now... :D

Redline is 6K, I haven't felt the need to push it any further. With the old cam the car always used to feel like the throttle had been eased off after 5K or so, the cam was just not doing it's job. With the new cam in it pulls hard all the way to 6K and feels like it would be happy to keep going if I wanted. On the slightly wet roads this morning if I was in second and accelerated would rev through to about 4.5K and then lose traction in a straight line. I'd say 10-15% better, hard to say without measuring though.
I chucked a cat convertor on it a couple of weeks back, just trying to do my bit for the environment, plus I blew the resonator to pieces when I had an exhaust system full of fuel and cranked the car over. It choked the engine down a bit (I used one from a commodore, VN era or thereabouts) unfortunately. With the new cam in it feels like it has more power now with less boost (about 10 psi vs 12) and the cat on than before with the old cam in and no cat.
A bit more tuning (getting the fuel and spark matched up), a highflow cat and winding the boost up to 14, the car will really move. I'll have to get some dyno numbers to confirm the improvements. So far I've only used a G-Tech and got somewhere around 145Hp with the old cam so I'll see how it goes now.

Dunc

jakobsladderz,

Do you know how many degrees you actually advanced it?



Me and my brother-in-law fitted the stage 2 cam yesterday (car is not ready to run just yet... but soon)

In the Cam card it recommend to have the intake lobe centreline at 110deg ATDC.

When I installed the cam at factory location the intake lobe centreline 115deg ATDC.

We advanced the cam 4deg (Using the Vernier Adjustable Cam Wheel) so the intake lobe centreline in now set at 111deg ATDC.

I might advance it a little more later. I'll just drive it for a while ad see how it goes.



NOTE: We used a dial gauge and a Cam wheel to dial it in.




WidebodyWoody...
If you want to dial in a cam this might help.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7177/comp.html
The haltec ecu will need to be re-tuned. (Back in the dyno or road tune)

I didn't use a dial indicator but I did do my best to get it at maximum lift. I then marked the crank pulley with 109° BTDC mark. I lined the motor up to that point, lined the cam up to max lift, then found the right hole on the cam so that everything went together.. I guess I could have been a couple of degrees out from the centerline either way with the cam. I'm going to move it another degree or two forward to see if I can get any more bottom end and better idle without sacrifysing top-end...

TOMSUN wrote:jakobsladderz,

Do you know how many degrees you actually advanced it?

Me and my brother-in-law fitted the stage 2 cam yesterday (car is not ready to run just yet... but soon)

In the Cam card it recommend to have the intake lobe centreline at 110deg ATDC.

When I installed the cam at factory location the intake lobe centreline 115deg ATDC.

We advanced the cam 4deg (Using the Vernier Adjustable Cam Wheel) so the intake lobe centreline in now set at 111deg ATDC.

I might advance it a little more later. I'll just drive it for a while ad see how it goes.

NOTE: We used a dial gauge and a Cam wheel to dial it in.

WidebodyWoody...
If you want to dial in a cam this might help.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7177/comp.html
The haltec ecu will need to be re-tuned. (Back in the dyno or road tune)

108deg to 110deg ADTC should be on the money
With the Stage3 Camtech cam I gained about 30HP at 7000 RPM :)
However I did loose some spool down low, of course you can play with cam timing to suit.

The dyno below with cam at 110deg.

Mrb1...

Nice dyno camparison...

It look like you were running alot richer with the Stage 3 cam. eg 11:1 compared with 12:1 at 5000rpm. If you leaned it out a little (closer to 12:1) would probably would have picked up a bit more power in the middle of the rev range with the Camtech Cam.

The big 16G spools up very nicely too. (Time to up the boost? :D )

How much timing are you using at
3000 rpm
4000 rpm
5000 rpm
6000 rpm
7000 rpm
when under full load/acceleration??

Cheers

TOMSUN wrote:Mrb1...

Nice dyno camparison...

It look like you were running alot richer with the Stage 3 cam. eg 11:1 compared with 12:1 at 5000rpm. If you leaned it out a little (closer to 12:1) would probably would have picked up a bit more power in the middle of the rev range with the Camtech Cam.

I normally run a safe 11.5 AFR. Yes perhaps a little power, but probably not much in it with the CDI it burns pretty well.

The big 16G spools up very nicely too. (Time to up the boost? :D )

The EVO3 turbo has awesome spool
Everybody should be running this turbo.

How much timing are you using at
3000 rpm
4000 rpm
5000 rpm
6000 rpm
7000 rpm
when under full load/acceleration??

Cheers

I will have to check the maps and get back to you.

Engine spec:
stock engine 7.6:1
stock head
Camtech cam
EVO3 turbo
2.5 inch exhaust
L300
VR4 injectors
JD intercooler setup
M&W Pro12 CDI
M&W coils
ECU (mine)
stock valve springs (for Barney)

what ecu are you using?

pajeroturbo wrote:what ecu are you using?

My own ECU.

That makes two people (that i'm aware of) on the one, non-ecu related forum running their own ECU's :D . We are a bunch of clever cookies (does that make three cookies... oh oh...).

Thanks mrb1...

Very interested in the ignition maps and how much timing you run..

Cheers,
Pete