It's been quite a while since fixing the door glass guide in beast #2, in my post
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=2518
Lately, I noticed that one window gives a bit of a shudder on the way down, and there seem to be the beginnings of scratches on the outside of the window. The door glass guide seemed to be fine, so what was the problem?
This is due to the "Door Glass Stabiliser" being worn. This exerts a little pressure on the window glass to eliminate shudder. These aren't available from Mitsu anymore (being listed as a *(@^%#@(* obsolete part) :x . However, I have have managed to fix this very cheaply. Here's how:
1. There are two door glass stabilisers per door, both clipped onto the outside lower window opening in the door. You'll need to remove the moulding (technically the "door belt moulding") to get at it. Use something plastic to remove the moulding so you don't damage it - I used a paint stirrer. Here's what it looks like when you've removed the moulding: The DGS clip is quite obvious in the centre.
2. Here's the DGS removed. It's a metal clip with some fabric stuff glued to it, with some hairy stuff where it contacts the window glass. This wears through over time, so you have metal-to-glass friction with the inevitable scratches and shudders. The one in the pic is actually not too bad - the ones I replaced prevously were worn right through.
3. Remove the fabric stuff - here it is, removed from the metal clip.
4. Clean up the metal clip with wax & grease remover.
5. As a replacement contact pad, I decided to use some of the stuff that you stick onto the bottom of furniture legs, which is self-adhesive hard-wearing felt. I thought that if it could stand up to being on the bottom of chair legs being pushed around constantly, it should be ok for this (besides, I already had some :) ). You'll need to cut it to the size of the glass contact area - see pic below. Place it on the clip.
6. I decided to clamp it in position for a while to make sure the contact and bond was good.
7. You'll need to trim the thickness of the pad - it only needs to be a few millimetres. If it's too thick, it'll push the glass inwards too much, and when moving up & down the inside of the glass will encounter sharp bits which will scratch the buggery out of your window tint. I just used a Stanley knife to cut the thickness in (about) half.
8. Put the 2 DGSs back in:
9. Replace the moulding and enjoy the smoothest windows you've had for a while :D.
[How-to] Power Window convulsions - Part 2: final solution
[How-to] Power Window convulsions - Part 2: final solution
Last edited by JPC on Sun May 21, 2006 3:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Starion nutter since 1988...
1983 JA, 1984 JA, 1985 JB (all rego'd, all running :D )
1983 JA, 1984 JA, 1985 JB (all rego'd, all running :D )
awesome mate well done :beer
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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