TECH: Sway-bar setups...??

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
toysrus
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TECH: Sway-bar setups...??

Post by toysrus »

Ok, looking at the Whiteline Catalogue, they have a 24mm Front and 22mm Rear. Now the question is to what speeds/corner will these hold the Starion flat and controllable to be able to accelerate as early as possible??

Assuming 400/300 Front/Rear spring setup with matching dampening/re-bound Strut rates.

I'm assuming the Whiteline ones are made from steel but will confirm that in the morning along with what grade of Steel used.

NB: These are the bars that run underneath the Starion Front and Rear, and the endlinks will be modified appropriatly also.
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Post by redzone »

got em both on our white car, it corners dead flat i can tell u that much! best value for money suspension upgrade EVER!

other than that, how long`s a piece of string?

i have contacted whiteline about making a blade type adjustable rear swaybar so i can easily tune the handling of the drift weapon, if a few more people enquire about it they will probably go into production. so enquire away!
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toysrus
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Post by toysrus »

Anyone else ? or anyone running custom Whiteline thicker bars ?

What setups were run on the Group A Starions ?
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mrb1
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Post by mrb1 »

I found the 22mm way too stiff on the back. Gone to an 18mm bar.
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Post by toysrus »

mrb1 wrote:I found the 22mm way too stiff on the back. Gone to an 18mm bar.
Causing it to slide around too much ?
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mrb1
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Post by mrb1 »

toysrus wrote:
mrb1 wrote:I found the 22mm way too stiff on the back. Gone to an 18mm bar.
Causing it to slide around too much ?
Yes that's what I found.
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WANTSOM
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Post by WANTSOM »

every 1mm of additional thickness = 200 times greater torsional rigidity.

IMHO stay with the standard sway bars, add nolathane bushes for the bar and linkages and play with spring/damper settings. A good wheel alignment with a tad more castor and camber will reap better gains in handling.
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Post by Cookiemonster »

Agreed... standard sway bars are thick enough.
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Post by JJH »

WANTSOM & Cookie,

With your coilover setups, have you ever tried running without the rear swaybar?

Just curious as I've got comp valved Konis & King Springs on my JA struts and run without the rear bar and it seemed OK out at Calder. Next time out I plan to do some side-by-side testing with & without the rear bar to determine its usefulness.
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SIR GSR
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Post by SIR GSR »

I prefer the stiff rear swaybar.....It's suited to the way I drive.
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Post by ProZac »

SIR GSR wrote:I prefer the stiff rear swaybar.....It's suited to the way I drive.
Would that involve looking out the side window most of the time? ;)
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Post by SIR GSR »

Something like that ;);)
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Post by OLD FART »

At a hi performance school at QLD Raceway the instructor said that i needed a heavier front bart to make the front work harder to reduce oversteer Ihave fitted a 24 mm bar and the car is much more predictable and less twitchy on the limit My JB has adj Konies lowered King springs urethane bushes everywhere and ally bush to rear x member and std rear bar Cheers to all from Oldie :beer
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Post by Cookiemonster »

JJH wrote:WANTSOM & Cookie,

With your coilover setups, have you ever tried running without the rear swaybar?

Just curious as I've got comp valved Konis & King Springs on my JA struts and run without the rear bar and it seemed OK out at Calder. Next time out I plan to do some side-by-side testing with & without the rear bar to determine its usefulness.
:beer
JJH
From what I've heard, it was common for Starions to run without rear sways bars on the track, provided the springs and shock were set up correctly.

Best to try running with and without and see the results for yourself.
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Post by toysrus »

Chooky, currently has 22mm Front and Rear setup on his Group A running 450/300 Springs Front/Rear respectively.

Any thoughts on this ?

He does have other sizes to swap around the Front and Rear ones for along with different springs.....
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