Austarion

Hey all

Like my title says I can't really go past 2000rpm when my car is cold, I can but it feels like it's under really heavy load or as if something is pushing the otherway on the engine. I've checked my timing and vac advance unit and they seem to be ok.
When the engine is completely warm it is fine but until then it drives like a complete bitch. I've also noticed the vac lines have been played around with, any idea whats going on here?

My cars was fine- but after i rebuild my injection mixer (cleaning,polishing and new gaskets) the problem is that : When start the car- she starts fine- from the first time.Even yesterday was 15 degrees C under zero and I was not drive the car for 3 days and she crank from the first time- like was a summer.But until she warm- i have small problem with acceleration but after 3000 RPM its accelerate fine.When warm - the car is perfect.I thing the problem is - I changed the Fuel Presure Regulator with one from Ford Cosworth Turbo- but I forget the stok FPR is working without a vacuum and now I thing have about 50-53 psi fuel pressure at idle.The stock is 36.The weather is very cool here and the other week I will connect the fuel regulator with a vacuum from the Boost sensor line with T-fiting I will write here is its OK.Because when the car is cool the ECU give verry much fuel in the engine.So I hope the problem its from the pressure.

That first picture is actually correctly piped. There is a mitsubishi service bulletin for the thermo-valve in the intake manifold. What it is supposed to to is restrict the amount of boost generated by the turbo when the engine is cold. The mod involves replacing the thermo-valve with a bolt , and that vaccuum unit is then disabled. Check to see if your thermo-valve has been removed. Mitsubishi obviously had problems with this system.

I have also heard of turbochargers causing this problem , the turbine and compressor wheel not turning , or sticking to the housing when cold , but freeing up once they warm up.

You could also try removing the engine temp sensor plug(the ECU one , not the temp guage one) once it has warmed up to see if it is something electronic causing this fault. If you remove it , the ECU thinks the engine is cold , and if the fault returns , then you are more than half-way to fixing this problem (faulty engine temp sensor???).

Then there is the ignition side of this fault. Open up your ignitor box (very carefully , remove ALL the screws before splitting it open , there is a hybrid IC that can be damaged if you don't remove all the screws.) and check for dry solder joints. I had a fault in my ignitor that would cause it to misfire like a bitch when it was cold , but once the engine bay temp had risen , the dry joints in the ignitor would expand and make contact , and the fault would simply 'go away'.

There are many faults which could cause your problem , hopefully my 5 cents worth could be one of them , so good luck with fixing yours.

pic 1..

the little dooverlacky on the other end of your arrow seems to have a vac hose connecting it to the unused EGR pod. correct me if im wrong, but isnt that part of the cold start system?

you guys have saved me a post
My starion has been starting only when cold
with the temp sensor unplugged and when hot
the temp sensor has to be plugged in
I read this post then changed the igniter and now it starts
with the temp hooked up (hot or cold)

It was also putting just from idle (well cutting out) then it would
puff then bang hit 2000+ and run but its still guttless over 4000rpm
vheers:Phil.

Powerslave wrote:Then there is the ignition side of this fault. Open up your ignitor box (very carefully , remove ALL the screws before splitting it open , there is a hybrid IC that can be damaged if you don't remove all the screws.) and check for dry solder joints. I had a fault in my ignitor that would cause it to misfire like a bitch when it was cold , but once the engine bay temp had risen , the dry joints in the ignitor would expand and make contact , and the fault would simply 'go away'.

a good test for this wothout pulling it apart is to tip cold water over it when the engine is warm. if it starts to run like a cordia then theres your prob.

scum wrote:

Powerslave wrote:Then there is the ignition side of this fault. Open up your ignitor box (very carefully , remove ALL the screws before splitting it open , there is a hybrid IC that can be damaged if you don't remove all the screws.) and check for dry solder joints. I had a fault in my ignitor that would cause it to misfire like a bitch when it was cold , but once the engine bay temp had risen , the dry joints in the ignitor would expand and make contact , and the fault would simply 'go away'.

a good test for this wothout pulling it apart is to tip cold water over it when the engine is warm. if it starts to run like a cookiemonster then theres your prob.

Are you serious?