L300 multi help

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
User avatar
woops
Big Dorifto
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:38 pm
Location: brisbane

L300 multi help

Post by woops »

Hey guys and gals. I'm just needing some help with a bit of work i've been doing.

So far i have an XF throttle body on a L300 manifold, fuel rail, VR4 injectors and a halteck fuel only F9 comp.

I just need some help with wiring of a few other things.

Are the VR4 injectors positive or negatively switched or does that depend on the computer?

Is there anything that needs to be done to the dizzy to be able to still use the standard staz one?

Where do all the water and heater lines go on the manifold?

Would the stardard XF throttle cable be able to used or would that need to be made?

What gets plummed into the top pipe on the standard L300 fuel pressure regulator?

What voltage does the XF TPS run at and what wires show the TPS position and the power. I have a green and brown wire to choose from.

I'll probabally made more questions later when i run into more problems. Thanks to all who can help.
redzone
racking my brains
Posts: 5900
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
Location: sunshine coast qld
Contact:

Post by redzone »

the injectors aren`t polarity sensitive, most computers if not all pull the inj outputs 2 ground therefore are neg switching. you`ll have 2 make a new throttle cable using the xf end on the throttle bod, starion end at firewall and pedal. call mark at suncoast cable on 54790800 if there`s no one closer 2 ya.. heater hose connections r pretty straight forward but difficult 2 explain, try and have a look at gary`s (kit) black car if u get the chance. the large pipe on the fuel reg is fuel return 2 tank, the small 1 is to manifold vac/boost (after throttle body somewhere).. hope that helps mate
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
redzone
racking my brains
Posts: 5900
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
Location: sunshine coast qld
Contact:

Post by redzone »

oh yeah the tps runs on 5 volts normally but its just a variable resistor so it doesn`t matter if ur computer runs it on 12v. not sure about wire colours, best advice i can give is test it with a multimeter.. and on a fuel only computer u should be able 2 run the stock dissy alright. cant do that with a fuel/ign as it alters the advance curve!
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
User avatar
Cookiemonster
Mother Goose
Posts: 3177
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: L300 multi help

Post by Cookiemonster »

woops wrote:Are the VR4 injectors positive or negatively switched or does that depend on the computer?
They could be switched either way but generally they all hang off a common positive rail and the ECU switches the negative side. Check your ECU wiring diagram.
Is there anything that needs to be done to the dizzy to be able to still use the standard staz one?
You need to lock the standard Starion dizzy so that the mechanical and vacuum advance have no affect.
Where do all the water and heater lines go on the manifold?
Can you be more specific on which ones you have problems with?
Would the stardard XF throttle cable be able to used or would that need to be made?
You may find the XF throttle cable might be too short. Starion throttle cable should be fine for an L300 MPI setup.
What gets plummed into the top pipe on the standard L300 fuel pressure regulator?
Image

What voltage does the XF TPS run at and what wires show the TPS position and the power. I have a green and brown wire to choose from.
Generally 5V fed from the ECU. Again it depends on the ECU. Do you have a green, brown and black wire? Black would be ground. Brown would be power. Green would be signal. If it doesn't work swap the green and brown around. You can't kill it by wiring it up wrong. Some XF TPS's are on/off switches and not of the variable type. Make sure you have the variable one.
User avatar
BLOFLY
I like starions
Posts: 143
Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 10:14 am
Location: Brisbane

Post by BLOFLY »

You need to lock the standard Starion dizzy so that the mechanical and vacuum advance have no affect.
The F9's a fuel only so he shouldn't disable the vac or mechanical advance on his dizzy for his planned setup.
Luckily, the starion uses independant systems for fuel and spark as standard, so you can replace your standard staz ecu with the haltech without dramas, and leave the spark side of things alone.

As far as wiring goes you can download a wiring diagram from Haltech's website and they'll email you the F9 manual if you haven't already got it.

As far as water lines, look at the standard setup and where the lines go and try to copy it.
User avatar
Cookiemonster
Mother Goose
Posts: 3177
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by Cookiemonster »

The F9's a fuel only so he shouldn't disable the vac or mechanical advance on his dizzy for his planned setup.
Luckily, the starion uses independant systems for fuel and spark as standard, so you can replace your standard staz ecu with the haltech without dramas, and leave the spark side of things alone.
Correct. I missed the bit about the fuel only computer. Honestly though, why goto all this work to only install a fuel only computer. I realise money can be an issue, but you get so many gains by replacing the archaic igntion system.
Last edited by Cookiemonster on Sat Dec 17, 2005 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
redzone
racking my brains
Posts: 5900
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
Location: sunshine coast qld
Contact:

Post by redzone »

Yeah thats kinda all of what i just said :D
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
User avatar
Cookiemonster
Mother Goose
Posts: 3177
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by Cookiemonster »

redzone wrote:Yeah thats kinda all of what i just said :D
We were typing at the same time. :wink:
RiceThief
my mangina paid for my staz
Posts: 2129
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by RiceThief »

Cookiemonster wrote:Honestly though, why goto all this work to only install a fuel only computer. I realise money can be an issue, but you get so many gains by replacing the archaic igntion system.
It depends on you're after with the starion, a fuel only computer can give you pretty good results for a good price. Also i found that some fuel only computers have similar looms to their fuel/ignition computers, ie wolf 2d and wolf 3d so you could upgrade later without much more cost.
Starions are a disease, the only cure is poverty.

Project Grand Sport Racing Five
User avatar
woops
Big Dorifto
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:38 pm
Location: brisbane

Post by woops »

Well i already had the fuel only computer when i got the engine from a mate. The computer was setup for the throttle body injection and i was able to change over easily. Oh yeah the engine is actually in a sigma. All the setup has cost me including the manifold, injectors, injector cleaning and flow testing and the welding to put on the XF throttle body has been under $500. I personally think it's worth for how all you guys rave on about multipoint.
User avatar
mrb1
gtpumps.com.au
Posts: 1559
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 1:35 pm
Location: Sydney
Contact:

Post by mrb1 »

Leave the stock Starion ignition system in place. The knock sensor will still work,etc because the ignition system is pretty much seperate from the ECU.

However the stock Starion distributor is set to run on ported vaccum that means it does not see vacuum at idle. This is a bit of a problem when going MPI. There is no ported vacuum source on the L300 manifold.
ProZac
G33Kz0r
Posts: 2674
Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2003 1:26 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Contact:

Post by ProZac »

Tee off the vacum line for the vac. Advance unit before the throttle butterfly? That wouldn' show any vacum at idle would it? As soon as you crack open the throttle a little it will give the right signal? Probably want it pretty close to the throttlebody tho.
User avatar
mrb1
gtpumps.com.au
Posts: 1559
Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2004 1:35 pm
Location: Sydney
Contact:

Post by mrb1 »

ProZac wrote:Tee off the vacum line for the vac. Advance unit before the throttle butterfly? That wouldn' show any vacum at idle would it? As soon as you crack open the throttle a little it will give the right signal? Probably want it pretty close to the throttlebody tho.
Well normally they drill through so the hole is actually covered by the throttle blade at idle. As soon as you move the throttle pretty much at all you have vacuum. It would be a pretty tricky job to drill that hole.
Actually the L300 manifold has the provision on the casting for 3 taping points but they are not all drilled only one for full manifold pressure which is open all the time.
quest
I love starions
Posts: 411
Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 7:42 pm

Post by quest »

with a prpoer working dizzy advance and canister you have a decent igniton adv/ret curve for boost.
Playing with spring weights can alter the curve.
Some use a hand pump and monitor with a timing light to set it up.
A couple guys on starquestclub have detailed drilling the ported vacuum... basicly, try to copy the stock.
Moded 2.6s have gone 11s on stock ignition system + mpi, 12s on tbi.
MPI is where u realize the gains, and get rid of the fuel distribution problem that will bite a TBI trying to "push things".
Its a viable low cost alternative that really works.
Hell, a blow thru carb 2.6 went 11.8s on SQC, no intercooler. Full wt. heavy arse airconitoned wide-body! No too shabby, eh.
F.I.P. has fuel-only starion tunable ecu/loom for $495usd
User avatar
woops
Big Dorifto
Posts: 88
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:38 pm
Location: brisbane

Post by woops »

Ok I have all the wiring sorted i just need a bit of help with the pluming. Is the fuel pressure regulator inlet manifold pressure taken from after the throttle body or before. Also what actually gets plummed up to what on the inlet.

I don't really understand how this ported vacuum works. How would the best way to hook up the dizzy be.

In the pic below which ones are used.
1 is the one that joins to each runner in the manifold
2 has a vacuum line vitting
3 has a vacuum line fitting and a lager fitting

both 2 and 3 see full manifold pressure

Is 1 for the brake booster vacuum line

Image

Should i have a T piece on 4 to plum in 5 and 7

Image

Do i have to plum 8 and 9 anywhere of should i get plugs for them.

Do i need to have 9 going somewhere to have flow over the temp sensor and if so where do i plum the other end to.

Image

Should i be hooking the BOV, wastegate and boost gauge lines to 2 and 3. Thanks for any help.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests