Austarion

Hi

I am repairing a '87 Starion 2.0 turbo but the turbine is missing
and I need to get a new one. I have never dealt with a turbo
car before and don't really know all that much about engine
repairs but me and my friend are struggling to piece the car
together. Can you help me out with finding a turbine that will
fit my car. I found this one on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-TD05 ... enameZWDVW

but I can't tell if it will be a bolt on fit or if I need some
modifications to make it fit. Can you please also tell me
what turbines will be a bolt on fit. 14b? 16g?

Best regards
Agust from Iceland

Oh you're looking for a full turbo?

TC05-12A and TC06-11 are probably your only true bolt on solutions. Possibly a TD05-12 from an American Starion.

TD05-14/16's etc will bolt up to your exhaust manifold with a few minor modifications, but the compressor housing may need to be rotated and custom piping is a must, as their output is bolt on not clamp on.

Do not touch that EVO3 GT. Its not a real TD05-16G, its a made in china ripoff that may leave you crying when it breaks.

Yea if ever you see "GT" or "XSpower" Stay the hell away from them.

One stupid question.... how is the boost controlled in
the original starion turbo, is it the ECU that controlls
or some kind of adjustment valve?

Best regards
Agust

ECU to control boost isnt a normal car feature really. The Starion, just like most other turbo cars, uses a wastegate actuator with a spring. It slowly opens the wastegate flap when it receives enough pressure from a vac line. Its 100% mechanical in operation, no electronics are involved. The standard spring is rated at either 7psi or 8psi.

As with most other cars, if you want adjustable boost, you'll need a boost controller. This allows you to alter the pressure that is being sent to the mechanical wastegate actuator.

You know of any special type that fits the Starion?

If you meant the boost controller:
All boost controllers are universal. You dont need a special model.

You just cut the vac line that goes to the wastegate actuator, and use the boost controller (or their solenoid for an electronic controller) to join them back up. They just vent / bleed some of the pressure, so the wastegate opens later at a higher pressure level.

Probably best you get it fitted and configured by a mechanic, or do more research in to how turbochargers work before doing this, unless you are 100% sure that you are confident you know what you are doing. This is a performance upgrade, and not required to get the car running.

If you meant the actuator
It should come with the turbo, if not almost any actuator that is used on a car that runs about 8-10psi standard boost can be used, but you may need to make a custom mounting plate for it etc

I meant the boost controller. Ok I understand a lot better
now... :)

So the boost controller kind of gears down the pressure
the wastegate actuator gets. For example 1/2 the pressure.
The turbo is giving out 10 psi but only 5 reach the wastegate
actuator.

Ok then I have one more "advanced" question: :)

A manual simple boost controller must have a linear
curve, for example output = 0.5 * input. If I get a
electronic GReddy boost controller, can I get a
non-linear curve, for example a 0.5 ratio for the
first 5 psi and a 0.3 ratio for the 5-10 psi ? or even
a more curved curve.... ?

Best regards
Agust

to be brutally honest i dont see the point in a big expensive ebc, just a decent manual boost controller will be fine. i've seen some ebc's costing over $500, id rather just pay the $50 and get out and wind the thing up/down instead of wasting money.

you probably wont even notice the 'curve' as you call it, just hold your foot down and enjoy the boost

Good point....

But how high can I go in boost without modifications
to the engine. I think the orginal engine/turbine is
around 6psi / 179hp

How high can I go in boost and hp if I get a boost controller
without blowing my engine to pieces :)

Best regards
Agust

12 psi is a nice safe healthy boost level.

how do we adjust the spring tension on the actuator? and which way (clock or anti-clockwise) do we turn to get less boost, and which way for more?

Ill assume an intercooler is recommended for running 12psi on a standard Starion??

Starion_Turbo wrote:Ill assume an intercooler is recommended for running 12psi on a standard Starion??

not really necessary, you will get more power due to the decreased temperature of the air but an intercooler isn't needed to prevent detonation until about 14psi/1bar. (assuming everything else is working fine)

This however is the problem with bleed-valve type boost controllers, you get 'spiking'. Ie: your boost level will be set to 10psi and then at one point it'll get away on you and go up to 16..... EBCs prevent that and keep the boost nice and steady.

As to the query about a 'curve', most EBCs do not allow that, generally they have 2 settings, low and high, and they are linear. For a boost curve you would want to seek out aftermarke engine management.

You dont want to screw the boost up too high, it will hit the cut out like a bitch. It will also begin to leak oil from everywhere if its an old engine and blow your dipstick out every time you hit boost. I think Iceland has natural intercoolers? :D