Austarion

Anyone,

....in particular wiring diagrams and any relays/switches people used ?

I've read about setting a switch or something at the throttle control...how reliable....any other/better ideas....and how would I go about doing this ?

Also the red wire +12v is grounded to switch the 3rd valve on with white wire hooked up to -12v battery, right so far ?..... what is ground, chassis ? kinda a stupid question but isn't chassis -12v which is grounded anyway ? never really thought about it...

Thanks

The '-' terminal of the battery is the reference ground point, and it is tied directly to the chassis, so they are at the same potential.

So, yes, the chassis is ground. There is no -12...

So by just having the white wire and red wire grounded then the 3rd valve should start working, right, how does that make sense or work ?

I dont know the details on the dash setup, but maybe ENERGISING the solenoid DISengages the 3rd valve, so when you REMOVE the current from the circuit, it ENGAGES again.

Correct Prozac.. apply 12volts to the solenoid and the 3rd valve is disengaged.

So once the revs hit 3000rpm or so you want to remove power to the solenoid.

okay, so if both wires are cut (like mine), the 3rd valve will not work unless both wires are grounded ?

With both wires cut the 3rd valve will be working. To disengage the third valve one of those wires must goto ground and the other goes to +12v.

toysrus wrote:Anyone,

....in particular wiring diagrams and any relays/switches people used ?

I've read about setting a switch or something at the throttle control...how reliable....any other/better ideas....and how would I go about doing this ?

ok then, so how about setting it up to switch on and off as above ?

You really want the 3rd valve to activate based on revs.. not throttle position.

yep, so best way would be either the original DASH ECU and wiring, or via an AUX output on an aftermarket ecu.

I would hazard a guess and say the white wire will be the ground, and the red wire should have 12v switched on it...
When you want just the 2 valves operating, you apply 12 volts to the red wire, and when you want the 3rd valve to kick in, you switch off the 12v to the red wire.

You can get kits from JAYCAR for rpm-based switching, for DIY shiftlights or what have you...

Dont quote me on which way around the wires are however, someone may chime in with a definate answer on that.

Hell, if its just a simple solenoid, it may not matter.... *may* not mind you... im pretty flakey on that kind of stuff.

Some solenoids are polarity sensitive , it may have an internal diode that stop back EMF from spiking the ECU. Be careful.

On my DASH motor the white wire is negative ( ground / chassis ) and the red wire is +12v.
I have left the plug disconnected so the larger inlet valves run all the time.
:D

A.

just to add some confusion, well i am anyway, mine has 2 black wires.
however, there is no back emf diode in there to worry about.
it is better to get the 3rd valve working at about 2000rpm, as it gets the turbo spooled up quicker, ie FULL boost available before 3000rpm.
dash engines have a chronic idle with the third valve working at idle rpm's.
though some people seem to run it this way ok.
Dave.

I have a dash e15a eterna wiring diagram , so if anyone is real keen I can find it and post it on the site. I take it no one has even run the standard dash computer. I couldn't get my dash motor to run with the dash ecu, but I have had suggestions that it could be a faulty distributor. Does anyone have a dash distributor (ie as they would not use this one in the starion because it is different) that they would sell or even lend to me to see if that is what is wrong with mine.