Austarion

hey guys does anyone have a diagram that could help me with installing a boost controller i kno there simple to install but plz help the iliterate.

is it an electric type or bleed valve type?

bleed valve i think, its the gfb atmoic single stage

well there are 2 ways of doing it, assuming its just one of the little manual screw ones.

do you want it to
a) boost faster and spike
b) boost the same and not spike

cuss cuss can u also tell me the way to boost with out being spiked... i have mine set up between the turbo an the waste gate..

which ones better ???? i guess boost earlier i think could you explain the benifits of both options A and B and what they will do in detail thanks :D

boost earlier gives you better get up and go, but if it spikes it will mean that you may hit boost cut which will cause a large hesitation in acceleration for you.

The better option is the boost at normal time with no spike as it is more easily controllable.

Gonna have to explain wastegate creep first.
What we have normally in a wastegate is when you hit a certain pressure the actuator will push the rod and open the wastegate. But this is not a simple on off thing. Take a normal setup, 7psi the wastegate is fully open, but what about 6psi? Its going to be 1/2 open because the actuator is seeing almost the right pressure to push the rod. So what you end up having is 1-4 or 5 psi being fast spool and the next few psi being not so fast as the wastegate is opening. This is wastegate creep.

now the reason it spikes is a result of making the output of the boost controller a restriced size. What it does is delays what the actuator sees so the wastegate is closed all the way to the desired boost level. But when you hit that 7psi the actuator is still only seeing what the boost was a short time ago (depends on how small the restrictor is) and it will continue boosting.
(As a note, wrx's actually do this from factory)

so what you have is on the normal ones that just tee into the line inbetween the pressure line (usually out of the turbo comp housing)
is turbo on one side, boost controller in the middle, excess pressure being vented up top (controlable with a screw or turnable by hand) and the wastegate actuator on the other side. By this setup it will boost hard then spike.

How i have mine setup is that you run a tee piece in the line where the boost controller sits on the other setup and run the 3rd connection (remember one side goes to turbo, other to actuator) to the boost controller input side (mine has an arrow). Plug up the vacuum side with a vacuum line cap thingy (can get em at auto one in like packs of 20 for $2 or something like that) and adjust as usual.

If theres any confusion i will draw a diagram or take pics of my setup.

which is better.... Idealy both haha, but that involves solenoids. Im looking into it, but only 1 boost setting would work.
Personally im going with the no spiking route, as the boost isnt any slower than normal at all, its just not any faster.
I did run it way too high once when adjusting it (went off the end of the scale so ~17psi) yes, it boosted fucking hard, but its no good for the engine.

With the gfb atomic one (i installed mine last week) you MUST make sure the side that the arows are pointing TOWARDS connect to your wastegate actuator and the other side obviously connects to the turbo.

cheers.

Yeah I have also got GFB Atomic, I found it hard to fit it between the two turbo vac line nipples so I ran a length of rubber tubing in a loop around the air intake accordian hose and spliced the boost controller to mout it ontop of the air intake hose.

jameyshey_1, what level of psi are you intending to run?

im looking to get around 12 psi and which one would be good for drifting and 0-100 time say???

yeh 12 would be good for drifting, heard 13 is bad but once you hit 15 again drifting is good. good psi for 0-100, i've heard some cars running 60 for quarter miles, could try that?

LOL

so your saying you fitted it to the little hose the goes from here:

to the wastegate?