Austarion

hey guys just wondering wats the most you push your cars to 5000rpm when draging a smart ass ricer on the street or are the motors to old for that ? also what oil do you all use ? and how long do i have to drive like a grandma to wear in the new turbo seals andrew thinks 5000k's sounds like a hell of a boring 5000k's to me.

OMG no wonder the car has problems....

sounds like a hell of a boring 5000k's to me.

Ur attitude towards owning a modified car is totally wrong. U dont spend money on a car and then go out and THRASH THE NUTS OFF IT because its going to be boring not to...when its going to fuck something.

5000k's might be slight overkill but its being safe.

As for 5000RPM....i dont think u will find many stock turbo motors that will put up with this for a long period of time. I dont think u realise that cars arent built to be driven like this off the showroom floor!

You see a lot of drifters and shit like that that get absoultely slaughtered....but do u have any idea what those people put into them to keep them running like that!!!

The motors themselves arent too old but unless uve got it rebuilt with forged internals, running it at 5000RPM will fuck it eventually.

Its your car dude....do as you like. The thing is though, dont ask us for advice, then shit on it coz u think that taking our advice will be "boring". Owning a modified car takes a lot of care, maintainence and inturn, money! As well as patience.

And if you wanna drive it like that...by all means go right ahead...but dont PM me and adam everytime something breaks because u will be breaking lots of stuff.

To all other members though...i urge you to add your educated oppinions on the matter.

Andrew

jameshey_1 wrote:hey guys just wondering wats the most you push your cars to 5000rpm

Revving to 5000rpm should be no problem at all if the engine is in good condition.

when draging a smart ass ricer on the street

Please don't drag/race on the street. Take it to the track.

also what oil do you all use ?

If the engine is new then run it in on mineral oil according to the engine builders reccomendations. Then switch to a synthetic oil. Mobil 1, Castrol R, Penzoil, again talk to the engine builder on what he recommends.

If the engine has seen a few kays then continue to use a thicker mineral oil. A lighter synthetic oil will find all the little gaps and clearances and may cause oil leaks and/or exhaust smoke.

and how long do i have to drive like a grandma to wear in the new turbo seals andrew thinks 5000k's sounds like a hell of a boring 5000k's to me.

That seems like a lot to me. 5000k's to run a in a new engine sure.. but a turbo shouldn't need anywhere near that amount of running in. I'd go easy for the first few hundred kays, change the oil and it should be right.

when i rebiult my turbo i let it warm up then drove 5k's to my fav 15km road and belted the crap out of it. worked wonders :D

Run the engine in on a mineral oil, say a 20w/50 SJ/CF. Then convert to a synthetic after around 5000k, and reputable brand will be OK, they are all good.

There is no need to run in the turbo, its not like an engine. My mates R32 GTR made 450hp at the wheels on a brand new turbo, the running time was about 15mins, the time it tool to drive it to the dyno.

I use Fuchs Titan 5w/50 SL/CF fully synthetic PAO base. This should cost around $60.00 from most retailers. My shift light is set to 6200rpm and the rev limiter is set to 6300.

ASH

andrew these guys seem to think that there is no need to run the turbo in how come u think i've broken the seals ( are you just going on what your turbo guy told you)

Yes james i am going on what my turbo builder told me.

Im not a qualified mechanic....nor am i a performance expert...which is why when i spend $1000 on a turbo rebuild...i obay every single word that the professional tells me.

Ill explain to you the theory that I HAVE BEEN INFORMED BY MY TURBO BUILDER.

What happens is...when the new seals are fitted, the are obviously not seated into place 100% perfectly. What this means is that when oil is in its thinnest form (at full operating temperature), at high revvs, it is POSSIBLE to leak small amounts (and a tiny droplet of oil can create a big dump of smoke out the arse end).

Continued leakage through these seals will cause for any carbon deposits to lodge themselves in the hole (as they will be carried by the oil) and once they are lodged....it WONT seat in properley hence it will always leak.

The added need for this extra care to be taken is that the old turbo had large carbon build ups on it...hence there being a possibility of small amount being left in. The car had 4 flushes done (20 litres of oil roughly) BEFORE fitting and running the new turbo...but care also needed to be taken to ensure that this didnt happen again. If the engine hadnt had carbon build up problems previously, like in the case where barney, ur mates R32 had a new turbo fitted for performance reasons, there may have been no need for care to be taken, but this situation called for it.

Now the advice from the turbo builder was broad as in "a few thousand k's before driving it like a race car". I like to live on the save side, so i figured that 5000k's would safely cover his recommendation of "a few thousand".

On the debate of revving it......do as u like really as its your car, but a motor that hasnt been rebuilt with forged internals may incurr problems doing it for a prolonged period.

On the great oil debate. Mineral based oil is OK but this is what you have to keep in mind.

Mineral based oil will break down under high temperature FASTER than a synthetic or semi synthetic based oil. In a turbo car, it is essential that oil is kept clean...hence using a mineral based oil will require you change the oil more regularly, and u will have to keep more of an eye on it.

Andrew

I wouldnt argue with Barney about oils. :)

a starions max stock power comes at about 5250rpm so is there a problem with gettin te little puppy up here.... by the way mine has never been above 3000 and im selling it anyone want in HAHAHA JOKE

big moz :pimp

Fuel wrote:I wouldnt argue with Barney about oils. :)

Hahah im not arguing Fuel :P Just stating one of the main differences between synth and mineral.

Weve had penrite and motul training seminars at work over the last month so i was just showing off my newfound knowledge :P:P

It seems that we are going round in circles here with "whats wrong with the car" and "was it fucked when u bought it" and "how should it be driven" etc etc...and it seems im repeating myself so i just wanna make a final post on THAT issue...and keep all further posts to adding usefull information.

I am not a mechanic, nor do i claim to be, nor do i claim to have the knowledge and skills of one. All the information that i have given on the topic of this car is knowledge that i have learnt from talking directly to mechanics and other automotive experts and asking them specific questions.

Now it is possible i suppose that there is a problem with this car that i hadnt identified before i sold it...and if this is the case, that is unfortunate (although not my problem) but there was really nothing more i could have done as I WAS INFORMED that after the last $1000 i spent on it it was in A1 mechanically.

There seems to be debate remaining over whether what is wrong with the car now was caused by what i said it was...and whether the turbo needs to be taken easy on so im going to put it like this.

I cant make the decision on what is actually wrong because as i said, im not a mechanic, but im looking at it logically. The car was blowing lots of smoke. We established this to be caused by the turbo. I spend $1000 and get the turbo rebuilt. When i pick the turbo up, the builder tells me everything that i have told you on this thread...as well as before you bought the car about not boosting it up etc. Acting on this advice, i drove the car VERY EASILY (as advised by the builder) and the car never blew a puff of smoke again. I then sell the car to you, and advise you on how to drive it....but the car wasnt driven in that way, it was driven harder...and now it is blowing smoke, which is what my turbo builder warned me would be the result if i was to not follow his advice.

So there u have it...thats my logic for working it out. As i said, its not my problem now, BUT i certainly didnt intentionally rip you off, and im not trying to shift the blame onto you, simply using the above stated logic to establish what is or isnt wrong with this car, and what did or did not cause it.

Everyone can feel free to add their oppinions, but ill leave it at that on that topic.

Ill keep posting anything usefull that i have to add though ;)

Andrew

let yer bum dictate, my stazz is developing heaps of torque and pulling hard at around 3000-4500, very rarely there's any need to rev to 5K or even 6k unless you want to get to 240Km/h, but on the street mid range torque is plenty. the 4g63 has sweet mid range torque...