Austarion

I ordered a GT30 with 0.63 rear.

When it arrived it was actually a 0.82 rear. I've been waiting since before Christmas for the new one, but keep getting excuses from the performance shop (no names mentioned!).

All my manifolds, cooler etc are now done, I really need the car going NOW.

I fear the 0.82 will be a lag monster, but looking at the size of the wheel/housing compared to say a TO4 0.58 (which I've used before) it doesn't look that much bigger, and being ball bearing they are meant to spool faster.

Some people say use the 0.82, others say no way. The problem is, if I use the 0.82 I'm stuck with it, the shop won't swap it for a new 0.63 i'd say.

Anyone have experiences with the GT30s on Starions?

Does anyone know if the Crower 4G64 2.37lt stroker kit will fit the single cam? If so the 0.82 might be worth keeping?

Phil

Well yeah mate I am in a way.
I'm running a GT3040 which has a .82 GT30turbine as yours as works fine the front end (Compressor) uses a GT40 .50 comp cover
The turbo comes on boost about 2000rpm and reaches full boost at around 4500rpm and then holds flat

PS only running max of 14.7Psi (1 Bar)
2.4 motor ,custom exhaust manifold, MPI,large plenum

My opinion is that the 0.82 housing will be laggy on the SOHC 2L. Alot of Skyline R33 owners use the 0.82 housing and this has good mid range and top end as well as progressive boost transition. Those who have tried the 0.63 feel that it is like a light switch when it comes on boost on the 2.5 DOHC 6 cyl.

Yes, I know it is a 2.5L DOHC, but the 2L SOHC 4G63 will be more responsive down low with the 0.63. What do you require from the engine? Laggy bottom end with good midrange and great top end? Or a more responsive engine down low and great mid (and top end)? Don't forget that the redline is 6,500-700 on the SOHC, so having the boost kick in earlier would be more beneficial. There are also many other factors such as engine set up, comp ratio etc. You can always change up to the 0.82 when you get stroker kit fitted if you aren't happy with the 0.63.

I have the 2.6 engine though, but I run a GT35. I believe it is much bigger then the GT30, but I get no lag with it. Well, it hits max boost at about 3500rpm's, but my cooler piping is causing slight lag.

I just think that I'll never get the 0.63 from the shop in Brisbane.

A 0.63 housing is going to cost another $400 so I have two options.

1. Sell the turbo I have and buy a new 0.63 - time?????

2. Bolt on the 0.82 and if it's too laggy order a 0.63 rear $$$$$

The problem is I've completed all the fabrication, everything comes back from the polisher today. It's ready to fit up!

Why doesn't anything ever go smoothly!

Phil

Okay, just keep the 0.82, the stroker kit should only set you back about $1500AU tops, $420US for the pistons, $370US for Eagle rods and about $250AU for the forged Crankshaft here in Australia, the pistons and rods have to come from the US but that's no big deal and you save like $3000US over the Crower kit, Crower rods if necessary are about $650US so it's up to you. I would not recommend going with the Magnus/Arias pistons with 'Quench pad' design as these have been designed for the DOHC and putting them in a SOHC format is going to be far worse than the standard Wiseco one's which area still far better than the more expensive JE pistons.

Tell me more!

What crank? Is it as good as the Crower?

Where can I buy the rest of the parts? Who sells Wiseco etc in Aust?

Phil

it would be the 4G64B crank out of an L300. You should be able to easily source the parts from the US at a very good price as both the 4G63B and 4G64B are very common there with plenty of performance shops specialising in DSM's.

GT30 on a starion motor:

http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/dsc00435.jpg

I know for a FACT that the Hyundia Sonata 89-92 is a Forged crankshaft, and I've spoken with a crankshaft specialist who has seen cast-iron 4G64B ones so be careful, you can tell by the mark down the centre if its a skinny line coming out or a very wide grinded mark indicating Forged.

A well-prepped Forged crankshaft (ie balancing, straightening, micro polishing, stress relieving and nitrating) will be as good as the Crower one so need no to fork out the money for the Crower one plus shipping the crankshaft will be very expensive since they weight close to 18Kg excluding packaging :x

Just take it a crankshaft specialist and tell them you want the works to handle 700+Hp at the flywheel and they'll do it. Even better to get a price/qoute though listing what work they'll perform to it from atleast 5 crankshaft specilaists to pick which one will do the 'you get what you pay for' job rather than the cheapest or most expensive

I use a HKS GT2530 0.64 exhaust and 0.60 compressor. Makes boost early then 17psi by 3700 rpm

ASH

@fr335tyl3r: Who's engine bay is that? looks fantastic!!! Ad what a intake manifold... :o

I wish i could say its mine :P

lol its a friend of mine who recently got some parts off my parts car. That engine is in his sigma...such a damn sleeper...making around 280 horsies at the treads but hoping to make more soon enough.

im fairly sure he isnt present on this forum.

Looks really nice that engine bay. But yeah, that GT30 is smaller then my GT35. But it should be really good for a 2Lt.

After speaking with Chris Collier I've decided to stick with the 0.82 rear.

He's building me a 2lt motor with pistons/rods/head work/ARP studs/cooper gasket, basically all the goodies!

Chris reckons 400rwHP on 20psi shouldn't be a problem, based on other cars in his stable.

Phil