Air Flow Meters

[gotrice?]

any one fitted a bigger air flow meter?
would you need to change the computer?

and could someone explain why we can't fit a pod style filters with the standard computer?

[SpidersWeb]

Pull the airbox apart, and you will immediately see why.

Changing the MAFS to another model (such as Galant etc) that can have a pod squeezed over it, will give different readings to the ECU, causing it to run rich or lean. You could fix with an SAFC or something.

I think the first mod to any Starion should be an aftermarket ECU. Gets rid of so many of these small problems.

[gotrice?]

yeah its just i can't find any one to tune it!! i guess i could do a ruff tune but the hole wiring is a bit of a worry.

[SpidersWeb]

Might be a good plan to get a K&N replacement filter, and take to the air can with an angle grinder :D Make some holes, and if you have the time, find ways of ducting cold air in there.

[TD05]

for more flow, get a AMC, get rid of the AFS and run the whole thing off the MAP... :P

[gotrice?]

Pretend your talking to a less educated person...........in fact don’t pretend

[SpidersWeb]

he's saying screw the factory setup.

Aftermarket Computer + MAP sensor, and throw the air flow meter in the bin.

[gotrice?]

now wasn't that easier to say? :)

[TD05]

he's saying screw the factory setup.

Aftermarket Computer + MAP sensor, and throw the air flow meter in the bin.

Thanks Spiderweb, I feel better now. :D

[skip]

Might be a good plan to get a K&N replacement filter, and take to the air can with an angle grinder :D Make some holes, and if you have the time, find ways of ducting cold air in there.

Given I can't afford the cash to do the replacement computer thing, I just got a K&N filter. Anyone put holes in their air filter box? Photos?

I have a dremel here that needs some action!

[SpidersWeb]

Yes. I dont have pics but you dont really need photos.

Just make sure the bottom part of the can stays attached to the top. Try to make holes where cold air will flow. I used an angle grinder. Some people go as far as leaving two thin strips holding the can together, and eliminating the rest.

Do not cut the top or base. Only the sides. Make sure to leave the rim on the top of the base piece so the clips on the top can still lock in to place.

[Powerslave]

Here's one I prepared earlier.



Heatsoak does not seem to be a problem by cutting the upper portion , either.

:beer

[mrb1]

Here's one I prepared earlier.



Heatsoak does not seem to be a problem by cutting the upper portion , either.

:beer

Sorry I have to dissagree. Have you actually done any temperature measurments? With the factory intercooler hose laying right against it to make a good heater? The temperature in that hose on boost goes 120+ degrees. I can't think of a better way to heat up your intake air :roll:
If you are not running the factory intercooler setup and your pipe work is different then maybe thats ok.

[avandull]

The intake temperature will have to be higher with the air box cut out like mine, but unless you are on the race track the under bonnet temperatures are hardly high enough to notice a power difference

here is a picture of my cut up air box

[Powerslave]

Yes , I have taken measurements on the air filter element itself and while the car is moving (even as little as 15km/h) , the temperature in the airbox is on average 2 degrees above ambient temperature. These measurements were taken with 2 thermocouples , one on the air element and one outside the car. Heatsoaking does develop after about 60 seconds of being stationary , but returns to normal within 15 seconds of moving. I have spent a lot of time and effort in taking these measurements , so the answer is YES . There has already been a thread on this topic ..... somewhere ......

HERE :

http://austarion.com/forums/view ... ermocouple


:beer