Austarion

So I've had it with the GSR-V. I've checked every sensor over and checked the signals at the ecu and can't fault anything. So I believe my ecu is at fault and causing my weird idle which hasn't gotten any better. The codes it was flashing out of the diagnosis connector were for the oxygen sensor and the tps which check out fine.

I got a quote for a Haltech ecu to be installed today and it'll cost about $2500 with parts and labour. Should I go for it? I just want my reliable Starion back I haven't driven it for months

I run a haltech. I love having it to be honest. It makes it easier for you to go mpi if you want to later. Just make sure that price includes dyno tuning and that they know what they are doing. A complete dyno tune usually costs around $600. So the price seems very reasonable to me. Oh and make sure they use a haltech step motor for the cold idle too

They were gonna add a map sensor that supplies it's own air for the idle and delete the stepper motor and air flow meter

Mine has MAP sensor too but you will still need a idle control for cold idles unless you don't mind a rough idle when cold.

The map sensor supposedly gives the intake manifold it's own air supply after the throttle plate just for idle

Was the quote from David at RPW? Since your in Perth. If so, then it will include tuning. He does good work.

The DASH motor's dizzy does not have a reference point design, so you will need a L300 optical dizzy to run an aftermarket computer.
I have seen GSR-V ecu's for sale in Japan. They occasionally show up.
Perhaps you can ask Ricethief for a lend of his DASH ecu to see whether yours is actually kaput.
I've owned the white Mitsumadness GSR-V after it was changed to a microtech LT8 ecu and idle control was not one of its best features.
Always above the 1000rpm mark. It had the 2 large injectors fitted which are rated at 1050cc each I believe.
The 3rd valve was wired up to be constantly active to not make tuning as complicated....
Overall it was a success to run the Dash setup but definitely not straight forward!

:beer Mal

I thought the dizzy was optical, it has the silver disc with the slots in it. I'm in Perth WA so I don't think borrowing an ecu would be quite so easy. Is the third valve really that hard to work with? I would've thought it would've been similar to Toyota's TVIS system on the 4AGE where it opens airflow to the second intake valve at a certain rev range. Only it's a vacuum actuated plate system not electronic?

That's interesting... I didn't know it could do that? I only know of a MAP sensor being a sensor and reading the current Atmo pressure in the inlet. If it works for you, awesome.

JDM GSR-V wrote:The map sensor supposedly gives the intake manifold it's own air supply after the throttle plate just for idle

Mate I think someone is leading up the garden path with that one... I have been tuning & fitting ECU of near on 20 years & have never seen such an animal. :beer

That's what I thought :p Which is why I was mentioning it :)

JDM GSR-V wrote:I thought the dizzy was optical, it has the silver disc with the slots in it. I'm in Perth WA so I don't think borrowing an ecu would be quite so easy. Is the third valve really that hard to work with? I would've thought it would've been similar to Toyota's TVIS system on the 4AGE where it opens airflow to the second intake valve at a certain rev range. Only it's a vacuum actuated plate system not electronic?

Yes, the Dash dizzy is optical but does NOT have a return/home point! You will need the L300 dizzy!!
I will be catching up with Ricethief soon, so I will ask for you :D It's only a case of posting the ecu (with tracking) to check for sure yours is on the way out.
His black GSR-V has been converted to multipoint with a custom intake and another motor thrown in and dedicated for track these days!

This is what I know about the dash engine, the third valves are activated by a solenoid at 2500 rpm, its hydraulically activated. To activate the valves you actually take 12 volts away from the solenoid.

You can run without a home sync/slot but you won't be able to run wasted spark or any form of multi-coil or sequential injection. Not really a big deal especially if you are still running TBI and you are slightly limited with timing having to still use a dizzy for ignition.

If you need to test whether your problems are ecu related I am happy to send you to ecu to test it out, obviously just cover the shipping costs both ways.

Thanks RiceThief but I've decided to just go with it. It's such a pain to diagnose and I had been thinking about doing it anyway. The plan was to keep the tbi as I don't really want massive power, the car is in really good condition and I'd like it to at least seem stock still. I'm not doing anything with the ignition coil either but I'll see how I go with the dizzy anyway. At least if I want to change anything later on I can