No power after turning off engine

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:57 pm

1982 JA Starion 4G63 SOHC

Got home lastnight and turned off the headlights, down they went... turned the engine off and all power turned off, including door lights and dash lights. Ignition completely lifeless....

Spent all day tracing wiring and trying to figure it out, but not sure what's going on... ECU has some shiny blue colouring on some of the solder on the board, and some signs of rust, but I don't know how the ECU would prevent all power to every component?

I replaced the ground cable from the battery and checked and tightened the positive terminal too, still no sign of life.

I've seen reference on Austarion to the "Main Fusable Link", although I'm not sure which fusable link is the "Main" One???

Any help regarding this would be grand... many thanks

Lunacy · Post by **Lunacy** » Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:25 pm

Main fusible link runs off the positive battery terminal into the fusible link box. Def check that first

ProZac · Post by **ProZac** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 7:20 pm

the 'Main' fusible link is the one that connects the relay box (behind the cover, next to the battery) to the battery. Looks like a smaller gauge red wire, coming off the positive battery terminal.

I had exactly your symptoms. For me, it turned out to be the sub fusible links over by the air-cleaner. These fusible links are the ones that provide power to the interior fuse box, and the ignition switch. Mine were a little corroded, and getting very very hot. They got so hot that they melted the plastic housing. The system still worked while the current was flowing and the plastic was melted, but when I killed the ignition, the plastic solidified and insulated the connection. No power to ignition switch or interior fuse box, car was dead as a doornail.

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 8:30 pm

thanks for the responses... I replaced the wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible links, it had a shitty spade connector that seemed to allow power when wiggled... So putting in a new wire there seems to have fixed the issue.

It's currently unregistered so haven't been able to drive it yet, but I have noticed just revving the car it feels more responsive, in the past it has always been very sluggish... Would this bad positive connection to the battery had caused overall engine performance to be sluggish? Ever since we bought the car it has performed poorly, just curious if anyone thinks this repair might actually improve the engines performance? :beer

Komeuppance · Post by **Komeuppance** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:25 pm

That wire from the battery terminal to the fuse links, might be a fuse link itself. It is on US spec cars. Not recommended to replace a fuse with a wire.

All power to the car is provided through that connection, like the fuel pump, so yep it definitely would have an effect on performance.

-Robert

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 9:40 am

Thanks Robert, yeah I thought it wasn't the best thing to do but the guy that helped me reckoned it wouldn't do any harm? Do you know what the worst that can happen by replacing that connector with a solid wire? What would cause that link to be damaged anyway? I am happy to install a new weak point between the wire if that's going to be of some help, but just need some clarification if I'd be wasting my time on it.. thanks

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:47 pm

I took the car to the crash repairers today to have the windscreen replaced, and can happily say the car is in fact running much better. At first I noticed that I could hear the fuel pump, where normally I couldn't, the throttle is much more responsive, and the smell of the exhaust is much different also...
Oh, and I can hear the turbocharger spooling too, have not heard that whistle since just after I acquired the car several years ago.

I'm chasing up a distributor at the moment, as the vac advance is blown on this one. Just amazed that the positive cable straight off the battery seems to have been the cause for so many problems! I never would have thought of it. :pimp

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 1:43 pm

Hey mate, if you have replaced the fusible link itself with copper conductor you will leave that part of the car with no circuit protection so if there is an overload or fault, it will heat up until it burns and breaks the circuit, which will be after the car is turned to ash.
An easy fix is to get an inline fuse holder with a cartridge style fuse so its evident if there are ever any issues in the future.
Jaycar do them for a few bucks.

If you have just replaced the spade terminal with a new one thats all good and there wont be a problem, i had your same issue and because the fusible link looks like normal wiring as such, it was a pain to diagnose.

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 2:22 pm

Hey thanks, I'm not sure what gauge wire to use if I am to create a new fusible link? Or AMPS for the fuse? Any idea? cheers

panda · Post by **panda** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:03 pm

I have a spare dizzy if you still need one.

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 11:02 pm

PM'd, thanks panda, yes still after one.

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 6:52 am

In the technical section the wiring diagram probably describes what amperage the fusible link is.
As far as cable guage goes just make sure it is no smaller than what is already there.
That matched with the right fuse will have you sorted.

Champaign · Post by **Champaign** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 9:58 am

Ah okay, thanks for that Mick... I'll have a look! :D

No power after turning off engine

No power after turning off engine

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