Austarion

What are the main points for oil leaks at the front of the engine.
I think that the main oil seals on the engine are fine.

The oil hose for the turbo seems to be the main leak. Is this hose a generic cut length from Pirtek or Enzed?
Like to find out if there is a need for HD hose clamps here?

Do people use sealant on the oil cooler washers/eye bolts? It does not seem to be indicated in the JD manual, nor does it say to replace the washers.

Also do the newer 4G63T series Mits engines use an external oil cooler?

Turbo drain hose is not under pressure, any oil/heat resistant hose the correct length should suffice. I'd use clamps as vibration may loosen or move the hose.

Oil cooler lines have a brass washer that goes on each side (they're banjo fittings aren't they? ) Dont use sealant, maybe make a small gasket to suit from gasket paper...or something thicker if you feel like ditching the brass ones. (tight ass tip - lightly sand the brass washers to ensure they are flat and clean)

Alspos wrote:Turbo drain hose is not under pressure, any oil/heat resistant hose the correct length should suffice. I'd use clamps as vibration may loosen or move the hose.

Oil cooler lines have a brass washer that goes on each side (they're banjo fittings aren't they? ) Dont use sealant, maybe make a small gasket to suit from gasket paper...or something thicker if you feel like ditching the brass ones. (tight ass tip - lightly sand the brass washers to ensure they are flat and clean)

Hey Al you meant to say copper washers didn't you :?

Thanks Al & OF
I was just wondering if there was some well known, but rarely mentioned, tip here.
Probably will look at changing that turbo oil drain hose next time I do an oil change.
Silly thing is I don't use hardly any oil, yet the front of the sump and sump protector is always covered in oil.
I just wanted to confirm that those copper washers are reuseable.

OLD FART wrote:

Alspos wrote:Turbo drain hose is not under pressure, any oil/heat resistant hose the correct length should suffice. I'd use clamps as vibration may loosen or move the hose.

Oil cooler lines have a brass washer that goes on each side (they're banjo fittings aren't they? ) Dont use sealant, maybe make a small gasket to suit from gasket paper...or something thicker if you feel like ditching the brass ones. (tight ass tip - lightly sand the brass washers to ensure they are flat and clean)

Hey Al you meant to say copper washers didn't you :?

Lucky you knew what I meant

Copper washers should be cleaned, checked they are flat and then heated on a flame if re-used.

popup wrote:Copper washers should be cleaned, checked they are flat and then heated on a flame if re-used.

Would only do that in an emergency.Just get some new washers as they don't cost that much.

OLD FART wrote:

popup wrote:Copper washers should be cleaned, checked they are flat and then heated on a flame if re-used.

Would only do that in an emergency.Just get some new washers as they don't cost that much.

I agree 100%! ...but its handy to know if you need a fix to get you somewhere.

popup
Sounds cheap and cheerful. I like it.
what is the idea of reheating? and how much heat?
thanks