TF Magna wiring diagram for MPI

[enthuzed]

I've grafted a TF Magna v6 (6G72) TB & plenum to L300 runners and I require the pinouts and wiring colours. Does anyone have a workshop manual with the engine control circuit diagram?
I'd be rapt if someone can scan the page/s and post here. Alternatively, PM or email me.
Thanks.

[enthuzed]

Specifically interested in the 4 wires for the TPS, and the 6 for the cold start circuit any whatever there is for A/C idle up.

[ProZac]

Pretty much all mitsies from the early 90's on have run the same sort of TPS and Idle Stepper Motor setup.

TPS:
Some are 3 ping, with an external throttle closed switch which also forms the throttle stop. If yours is a 4 pin one, it'll have the throttle closed switch built in.

Stepper Motor:
6 Wires, two of which are +12V, the other 4 the ECU grounds out in sequence to step the motor forwards or backwards, increasing or decreasing the idle.

Head here:
http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/EVO%204-5% ... /ElecB.pdf

and then to page B-36. It's for en EVO IV-V, but should be the same sort of setup at the magna. The wire colours are different, but it gives you the pin positions on the plugs, so you should be able to work from there.

I'm running the same throttlebody on my MPI setup.

Can take some photos and make some more notes later if that's not enough info :).

[ProZac]

The A/C idle up is taken care of by the stepper motor, it advances a few more steps to up the idle a bit to take care of the extra load.

[enthuzed]

Here's a pic of my setup (sorry for poor quality):


I'm curious if you've set yours up the way I'm proposing, which is:
To connect the heater hoses at the bottom of the TB and based on temp it'll move as it needs to. I guess it's controlled by the water temp sensor.

If this is too complex, I can simply mount a blanking plate to the underside of the TB and operate the TPS from the air temp sensor.

[ProZac]

My TB looks pretty much identical, definitely the same idle speed control stepper motor, they're pretty generic on most mitsies from this era. You have to watch out for them too, as they fail quite alot... And if they fail in a closed circuit manner, they take the driver transistors in your ecu out at the same time. Its an easy fix, but the particular transistor is no longer available new, and must be scavenged from another mitsy ECU. There is a procedure for testing them up the interwebs somewhere, yous just looking for all the motor coils to have equalish resistance, i think around 30ohm from memory.

The throttlebody runs two idle control systems, The stepper motor, and a temperature controlled wax-pellet plunger system. The wax-pellet system is initially open, allowing extra air to bypass the throttleplate. As the water flowing through the throttlebody heats up, it closes and is no longer used.

I was going to hook the pipes up on mine to above the thermostat, and the top radiator inlet... But I havent given it a huge deal of thought yet. Possibly below the thermostat would be better... But that will result in water always by-passing the thermostat, which is also less than ideal. Will have to look at where they're plumbed up from on a factory setup.

I like your manifold, It keeps the thermostat in the right place and will avoid hot-spots. I'm going to have to modify the coolant passages in the block to reverse the flow bias to deal with having the thermostat at the firewall end on my FWD manifold.