Austarion

I think I have done a head gasket.
Last month or so the brake light was coming on and I noticed a split in the vacuum line at the manifold end. Cut one cm off the rubber tube at the manifold end. Sometimes the brake light would not come on.
Idling has been erratic last month.

Last night the sound of the engine changed and I thought I must have a hole in my relatively new exhaust.
This morning the car was really difficult to start. I checked my oil and it was at min. Coolant was low and added 2 litres to top up the radiator. Has been a while since I checked both.
When I got the car started and running for 2 minutes I noticed some bubbles in the top of the oil on the dipstick. Coolant level had not changed much.

If it is a head gasket what is a good option for a stronger head gasket and a supplier in Melbourne/Geelong. Funds are limited at the moment - what would the cost be approx.
Also is it advisable to install new/different head bolts.

Just had another look after the engine cooled down.
Looks like the exhaust manifold (I replaced the gasket last month) was held on by three nuts only. Dodgy workmanship on my part.
I used Champion pack Brass Manifold Nuts M8 x 1.25 (Nissan) with Champion 316 8mm SS washers. Do I need to use spring washers or?

Also the "acordian" air intake hose was split at the turbo end. I remember someone posted a fix for this on the forum.

I'd be using spring washers on the manifold, then you are less likely to lose any.

As for the intake hose, I'd get that fixed.

Sounds like you'll need to keep an eye on the coolant levels, check all your hoses are tight and in good condition, including the heater hoses.

If you can get a compression gauge, preferably a screw in type, that might give you some more idea too.

Thanks for that. Ages ago I did the engine swap myself and probably forgot to put spring washers on.
I sent a PM to alspos to try and get the pix for the turbo intake hose repair.

You need lock nuts not spring washers, spring steel loses it's effect when heated. Toyota ones are good (genuine part)

Thanks for that will give the Toyota ones the go.

redzone wrote:You need lock nuts not spring washers, spring steel loses it's effect when heated. Toyota ones are good (genuine part)

Ah! That explains why they're not usually that tight...

I find the best thing to keep those studs tight is nordlock washers! Never had an issue with them coming loose, even after repeated heat cycles.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37

another option which i use are the wurth copper coated locknuts

redzone wrote:another option which i use are the wurth copper coated locknuts

Given that they are wurth brand, you'd have to hand over a kidney or your left nut or something for payment? Are they really wurth it?

I might have to contact a mate of mine who works at Wurth for some "samples" then hehehe

brake light might be low on brake fluid in the reservoir or faulty handbrake switch.

I can confirm that they're 100% wurth it!

dirtygalant wrote:brake light might be low on brake fluid in the reservoir or faulty handbrake switch.

One of the first things I do with a Starion is disconnect the plug for the handbrake lamp. I don't need a bloody light to tell me the handbrake is on every time I yank the thing on...and ask anyone that knows me, I use the handbrake a lot!

Update. Compression test on engine 60000km straight gas never run on petrol since rebuild.
Burnt ring finger on turbo.
Bit hard to read my Stanley compression tester.
Cylinders 1 to 4. 160, 157, 165, 160psi. or 1100, 1060, 1140, 1100KPa.
Exhaust system OK. Getting a gas service with Rapidflow next week.