Austarion

So I'm getting frustrated by the fact my clutch keeps slipping under load (eg 4th and 5th gear) I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and slave cylinder. This afternoon I'm going to check the rod between the clutch fork and the slave for clearance, as it seems like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Anyone else ever had this problem? The flywheel was machined when the clutch was replaced, but I'm lead to believe it's not stepped, so I can't see it being a issue. I'm really getting annoyed by this as I don't want to damage the new clutch! Is it possible I've bent the fork? Or is there a adjustment inside the box?

www.18u wrote:So I'm getting frustrated by the fact my clutch keeps slipping under load (eg 4th and 5th gear)

Are you saying it only slips when in 4th or 5th gear.. A clutch (if slipping) should slip in any gear the same, depending on the RPM's, power, etc. Your gears shouldn't matter when dealing with a slipping clutch. If I read that correctly, then maybe it's your gear box.
Did you mean 4th and 5th gear? or 4-5k rpm?

Just to get abit more details before I attempt to give advice.

I have the very same issue on my widey, especially when the car has been driven a while. I remember Vulpes replaced his clutch on the white car and had the same problems with the folk not engaging... I believe he had the gearbox out about a half a dozen times.... check his posts out.

So, I suspect there must be a right and wrong way of putting these things back together or the clutch master is not working properly.

:beer

The clutch slips when on boost in 4th and 5th. I have had it slip in 3rd once. I believe it does this in higher gears more, as there is a greater load placed on the clutch. I don't think it is the clutches fault, more a case of not being disengaged all the way. It doesn't slip when cold either Mal! So I suspect it's a clearance issue with the fork and ball. The old clutch was the genuine item and had the same issue...

Which way around did you put your clutch plate in?

If your slave pushrod was too long it could cause your issues, is it adjustable, or just a solid rod? Is it under much tension when just sitting there, with no foot on the clutch pedal?

Would be a bit weird if your clutch fork was bent in such a way as to be partially disengaging your clutch, i would have thought they'd bend the other way?

Did you clean an/all the mating surfaces of any anti rust spray before assembly??

Does the pedal have freeplay at the top of its range?

mine youse to slip between 4th n 5th while on boost. have you just got your standard clutch in it?

Thanks for the comments guys, but I think you should read my post more carefully. The car had the same symptoms with the stock clutch as it does with a new hd 6 puk item. Something else is causing it to slip! I believe the clutch is not fully disengaged, and the added load in 4th and 5th is highlighting this problem. Yes I have some freeplay at the top of my pedal, but adjusting the pedal will only help it engage better not disengage. I think the box just has to come out....

Shannon for whatever reason it appears that the PP doesn't have enough clamping pressure to handle the torque.Was the CP& PP tested with the 6 puk in place by the clutch builder ?. is/ was the setback of the PP from the mounting face of the cover plate correct for the thickness of the CP ?

Remove the clutch slave cylinder and check if you can further disengage the clutch fork by hand. It may be binding on something and not fully returning.

I suspect that your ball is worn and that will affect the fork throw.
Before you take the box out, unscrew the ball (14mm spanner from memory) and put a 1.5 - 2mm washer behind it.
Spacing it out may make all the difference...I've been there before.
Yes it's fiddly, but it's quicker than taking the box out again.
Make sure you have a magnetic pick up tool, as inevitably you'll "drop the ball" inside the bellhousing at some stage during disassembly/reassembly.