2.6L 4G54B recommendations

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:01 pm

Looking to start collecting engine parts for a decent power upgrade. What would those experienced 2.6L guys suggest for:

- cam
- head mods
- bottom end
- de-stroking pros/cons?

and I won't be pussyfooting around

Already have most of the bolt ons, so now want to start on the internals.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:46 pm

Stock cam is best, most usa guys use them in high power street builds.

Magna head, maybe try a m9 closed chamber one would be a good experiment plus they dont crack easy like the m6 m7's.

Wiseco or JE I think do off the shelf forged pistons.

destroke, personally I wouldn't, u dont want to rev these things too hard..

1320ft · Post by **1320ft** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:02 pm

My 10 sec gk gsr had wiesco slugs and ridgecrest h beams, m9 head, camtech custom grind & rams port/valve job.

Balance shafts were removed & capacity came in at a little over 2.6.

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:01 pm

Have heard that there is a chain tensioner mod that keeps tension or takes up the slack in the chain until the oil pressure tensioner can do it's job.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:35 pm

Late model 2.6 block & tensioner maybe

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:10 am

have you considered swapping the 2.6 in the staz for the one in the gtr?

it would be yet another nissan powered staz

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 10:44 am

No, I have a 3L 6G72TT for that ;)

Thanks for the info so far guys.

tri26t · Post by **tri26t** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 11:00 pm

yep M6/7/9 heads are good then you come to the block and I dont know how
most of you guys see G54s but Ive never had a block that didnt crack or warp, seems when I put over 25psi in them the head studs on the exhaust side would pull the threads out of the blocks or the blocks would crack between the 1st and 2nd welsh plugs (EXHAUST side)
I used the 296 deg solid cam from the states and it was good over 5700rpm
to 7050rpm and always use a late Magna oil pump.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/760629/19 ... shi-triton

cheers:Phil.

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:32 pm

Phil, What about the M8 heads?

Are the late model Magna oil pumps the same as the OEM turbo ones sold by DAD on SQC?

Who makes the 296 cam in the US?

I have had Camtech in Aus reccommended to me by a couple of people.

1320ft · Post by **1320ft** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:39 pm

NXTIME wrote: I have had Camtech in Aus reccommended to me by a couple of people.

The camtech is essentially a copy of someone elses.

Like the 4G ones are copies of the Kelfords & BC cams.

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:12 pm

yep...was after specs and possibly custom grind recommendations since I havent played with G54's before

bulldogger · Post by **bulldogger** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 9:40 am

i have part numbers for crower rods,fidanza flywheel,wiseco pistons etc if you want
i had it all about a yr ago and sold it to guy in the act check through my link you see my old la and above parts

http://rides.webshots.com/album/5786314 ... es&start=0

tri26t · Post by **tri26t** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:47 pm

NXTIME wrote:Phil, What about the M8 heads?

Are the late model Magna oil pumps the same as the OEM turbo ones sold by DAD on SQC?

Who makes the 296 cam in the US?

I have had Camtech in Aus reccommended to me by a couple of people.

M8 head I used must have been an over heated one as it cracked real quick
between valves but still it was a great head. I used the late Magna oil pumps
and nothing else so I never had a delivery problem they were all Oem pumps -Idle 55psi and over 1100 rpm 85psi. the cams are Schneider...

http://schneidercams.com/hydraulicfollo ... fts-2.aspx

the only thing I had to use, longer tappit adjusters (4mm longer nissan ?)
and that put the tappet a little off center of the valve head on full lift.
I still have a set of Hydrolic DELWEST nascar valves and dogdicks I never
used (not selling) dont know if you can still get them....

http://www.delwestengineering.com/SpringRetainers

I dont think starion g54 BLOCKs C R A C K at all, so I would be using that
Ive never heard anyone say they have cracked one ????

Cheers Phil.

cheaterparts · Post by **cheaterparts** » Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:22 pm

OLD FART wrote:Have heard that there is a chain tensioner mod that keeps tension or takes up the slack in the chain until the oil pressure tensioner can do it's job.

I always fit a spacer behind the tentioner plunger its easy to measure while dialing the cam in and the front cover is off

when removing the head the cam sprocket will still sit on its resting spot
but when refitted on the cam to spacer stops the tenioner going back before the oil presure builds up

by the way I do this on a NA motor that has 3.5 mm removed from the head and some off the deck as well

MainstreaM · Post by **MainstreaM** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:19 am

Since you guys have the brake booster on the other side, I would suggest the Magna head and TR intake. I wanted to use the TR in one of my cars but I would have had to eliminate the brake booster completely for it to fit. Also Schneider makes a good cam and matching uprated valve springs. Get some stainless oversize valves as well. The G54 responds very well to opening up the airflow. There are some custom cams to use with roller rockers, TimC on starquestclub makes them, lots of guys have had good luck with his stuff. HKS made a real good cam for the G54B once upon a time, but good luck finding one. ARP makes head studs which is a good upgrade for big boost.

Kane

Austarion

2.6L 4G54B recommendations

2.6L 4G54B recommendations

Who is online