Austarion

Finally got the tb all pulled apart.

Here's a pic of my injectors - they're pretty dirty. What should I use to clean them? Does it matter which goes in which hole? Are they exactly the same?


If you see here, the outer seal is pretty loose. I'm guessing that should fit tightly around the unit. Will i be able to replace that?

There's a bit of corosion in there - is that a sign that there's leakage?

Apart from giving everything a good clean and replacing all the o-rings, is there anything else I should do while it's apart?

Thanks all. I'll grab some part numbers of the o-rings when i get em

They will only go back in one way unless you pull apart the wiring. Clena them, what for, you'll never see them again (hopefully)

Which seal are you talking about that's loose? If you mean the large flat ring, don't worry about it, it just cushions the injector when it's all back together. It doesn't actually seal anything.

Not sure what rust means. The cap etc is aluminium so shouldn't rust. Prolly just crap off the injectors. Clean it out and that's about all.

Replace the top screws (and any others you can get to) with allen key jobbies. You'll thank me later when you have to pull it all apart 7 times.

Thanks al.

In the bottom picture, the black ring that goes around the entire circumference. You can see around the bottom/bottom right that it is a bit away from the unit.

Aaahhhh. Just jam it back in or see what you can buy. A large plain o-ring would probably do the trick if it's the same size. It doesn't seal anything when everything is working properly.

then which ones am I supposed to be replacing?

Here's some more pics. Do they look reasonably normal for a 20yo car?

Alspos wrote:Clena them, what for, you'll never see them again (hopefully)

It's just a habit, and things look nice when they're all shiny. And if I do pull it apart again, i can see how dirty it has become in the short time since i've cleaned it. (Also, i'd rather not have anything that puts stuff in my engine dirty).

There are 2 that can be replaced in where the rust is, where the injector nozzle sits. If they are in ok nick, don't worry about them, they locate and hold up the injector nozzles. You also replace the ones around the top of the injectors, these are the ones that will leak if they are not right. I have a detailed explanantion of how I did mine once upon a time, just sent it to CussCuss. What's your email?

Here's some more pics. Do they look reasonably normal for a 20yo car?

They look to be in pretty good condition actually, when compared to others I have seen,


David

they look pretty close to what mine were, not quite as much corrosion down low, but the center bit of the injector was the same, all orange and crap

heres what al so kindly wrote for me.

"You need to get the ECI cap off. There is a large o-ring which goes right around the top of it. Undo the screws and then tap it with a hammer to loosen it. You can use a screwdriver but be careful not to damage the side of the cap (it looks ugly!!) I saw the pictures, put the cap back on the TB and you will have a bit more budging power undoing the screws etc.

Once the cap is off you can just slide the wiring out of the cap. Be careful, the wires will be brittle.

Pull the injector out of the bottom of the ECI cap. You may need to twist them a little to break the seal.

Once they are out, measure the width and diameter of the o-ring slot, go to the o-ring shop and buy several different size o-rings. Make sure the width of the o-ring is pretty close to the width of the slot, don't worry that it will be too high, we'll fix that. Make the inside diameter of the o-ring pretty close to that of the inside of the slot in the injector. Should cost you about a dollar for a handful of different ones. Also buy a new o-ring for the top of the ECI cap.

You'll need a drill, a round piece of tube or bar slightly bigger than the o-ring and some sandpaper. You need to use the paper to flatten off the outside of the o-ring, like a D shape. It may take a couple of goes, but once you flatten off part of the o-ring, put it on the injector, spray with some WD40 and slide it in to the injector cap. Make sure it is a snug fit. If you make the o-ring too small, start again. You need to do both injectors.

Hopefully once they both have tight seals, you can put the ECI cap and wiring back together and re-install it all. By the way, replace the phillips head screws in the injector cap with allen key screws the same size. You may need to pull it all apart if anything leaks and it makes the job a LOT easier.

I hope this helps a little, good luck with it.

Alan"

might wanna get the injectors cleaned and tested while they are out.
i was told by my local engineering place that they couldnt get proper sized o-rings, but what you can do is get slightly bigger ones and sand them down, just sand a little off and try it for fit.


and incase you didnt see it in the other thread, davids site http://blackice.com.au/starion/injec.htm is really useful too

Did I mention to put the o-ring on the bar and put the bar in the drill. Then turn the drill on and sand off the side of the o-ring.

Well, I just did if it wasn't obvious. :D

I've just driven all around ballarat trying to find the flat ones that sit on top of the injectors, but to no avail.
I'll have to put em back in and give it a go when i'm in melbourne next

ARGHGHGH!!!
the stupid thing wont go now.

I cranked it over, and it started after a few goes (i guess it needed time to pump fuel back through the system), ran for about a minute, then it died, and i haven't been able to get it started since.

Sometimes it gives the occasional fire, like it's about to start, then nothing (except the sound of cranking)...

stupid piece of 3#% *#!!!
i shouldn't blame the car, it's probably my fault..

EDIT::After exhausting 2 batteries, i got the car started (only by holding the accelerator all the way down while cranking it over) after the first minute, the car ran fine, took it for a quick spin, it felt fine.
then when i left it idling again, it suddenly stopped. No coughs, no warning, just one minute it was going, the next it wasn't.. then it took a while to start again, and coughed and spluttered and put out a bit of smoke when it was going.. and now it's idling fine again. ALKFJALKFJF

EDIT(2)::just took it for a fang down the road, drives perfectly on and off boost, no leakage from around the tb from that short trip. But will it die on me again tomorrow morning on my way to exams?? time will tell.

You to point out something that sometimes causes confusion...

The O-rings aren't supposed to be flat. They are supposed to be round. Heat and conditions make them go flat over time. That's a bad sign.

Regards
David

i wonder why the guys in the bearings/seals joint couldn't work that out?

I'll take a photo of em close up next time i'm game enough to take the injectors out. If you look closely in the photo's i've taken, you can see the flat edges of the rings

Have recently been through all this. To save any stuffing around down the shop, I disassembled it all, and plonked it all in a box. Went down to the seals shop (Transeal in Welshpool, WA in my case) and they measured up the size required and went and got it off the shelf. All went pretty well until I had to take it apart again - the o-ring around the inside of the injector assembly cap had somehow expanded. Took it back and they just gave me a tighter one.

Here are some pics also of the operation:
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02829.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02830.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02831.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02832.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02833.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02834.jpg
http://www.ipixel.com.au/temp/injector-fix/DSC02835.jpg

All works well now.

Cheers
Brendan