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About the switch to MPI
Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 8:59 pm
by Damo11
Hey guys, I've been pretty busy getting things together for a couple of starion restoration projects fun fun fun :D , so anyway I had managed to get pics till recently and Ill make a topic about my little starion collection over tonight/ tommorow night.
But I recently purchased yet another JA (that makes JA no#4 :) )
and well seems I fluked a great conditioned starion (mechanically) with only a little rust and a few other little things ill need to work on before I take it for blue slip + rego.
Anyhow I was searching for a little info on switching to MPI, with not alot of luck i tryed the forums search feature...well it found a good 1400 topics to pic from.
I was wondering if theres any wisdom anyone wishes to share or perhaps a link to a good guide on wats needed for the 2litre mpi switch and whats entailed in doing so, as I have a source for a hyundai MPI system at a fairly cheap price :D .
So any info or advice anyone would like to give me would be great (and yes I wont be doing the MPI till AFTER blue slip + rego, the car will remain stock.....until then
)
Cheers a bunch.... and sorry I'm sure this has probably been asked about a million times.
(A sticky on this matter would probably save it from happening too many more times :x, who knows maybe Ill make a topic about this when i get around to doing it even)
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 5:33 am
by OLD FART
Damo may I suggest that you do the following
Reverse the TB (recomend Falcon tb bigger ,flows more )
Electronic dissy
Haltec 1000 lets you ditch the KV airflow meter and go to MAP sensor to control fuel supply
550cc injectors
FMIC
Recirculating BOV
3inch exhaust
Tune
You may want to clean the tank and check the in tank filter as it may be blocked
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 6:28 am
by Damo11
Ok thanks for the advice old fart, haha yes indeed it was blocked, had to buy a new fuel pump yesterday and put a fresh tank on which i had sitting in the shed luckily, the original tank off of this starion when i dropped it was full of rust, someone was using an emergency fuel cap so Im guess it let moisture get into the tank, but shes running good now....
Almost good enough to register :D , just gotta get dad to take the brakes to work n clean them up abit get new pads and its basically ready besides the rust repairs ill need to do anyway.
thanks again for the help
if anyone else has further information that would also be greatly apreciated :)
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 11:21 am
by WANTSOM
Pretty much what Oldy said, you will have a choice of 2 inlet manifolds - L300 (pretty much a bolt on deal) or Sonata which require a cut and shut to reverse the flow direction. Sonata is a neater fit but needs a little more (but not a lot of) work to set up.
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 2:10 pm
by TOMSUN
About $3,000 minimum to go multipoint.
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 5:47 pm
by WANTSOM
Oh and as Oldy also said I would back up his comment on the Haltech ECU. Its an A grade bit of kit and great value for money. That said even an E6 version will be more than ample for what you want to do but the 1000 series is current state of the art.
You can continue to run the existing ignition/distributor system but going to an L300 optical is a lot nicer and allows multi coil setups.
Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:54 pm
by redzone
a haltech sprint 500 is HEAPS for a starion... no need to go for a 1000 unless u want to set records..
Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:14 pm
by thrash
what's the point of doing anything if you aren't going after records???
Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 8:24 pm
by avandull
I don't like the sprint 500 because they won't drive low impedance fuel injectors.
I really like the platinum 1000, and just about every other haltech. The e6 is getting a bit old now.
Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 3:56 pm
by redzone
High impedance injectors aren't a problem anymore since u can get siemens 600's for $100each...
Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 7:22 pm
by thrash
and everybody loves semen squirters rofl
Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 8:08 pm
by 1320ft
avandull wrote:I really like the platinum 1000, and just about every other haltech. The e6 is getting a bit old now.
When I was talking to Mick from Micks Motorsport about my motor the other night, he told me to go the Platinum 1000 over my EMS.
thrash wrote:and everybody loves semen squirters
redzone wrote:siemens 600's
I would actually say Bosch or Sard 1000's as a minimum, esp with E85 around now. The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.
Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 9:16 pm
by fugazi
1320ft wrote:...The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.
Yep! The
EV14's ones are the way to go... I've heard.
Posted: Tue May 17, 2011 9:59 pm
by 1320ft
fugazi wrote:1320ft wrote:...The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.
Yep! The
EV14's ones are the way to go... I've heard.
Yep, Injector Dynamics units are just a flow matched Bosch EV14's with extensions on them.
Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 4:40 pm
by WANTSOM
When I referred to a Haltech "E6 version", I was referring to the option of that series as in E6K or E6X etc - not the original E6!
The features available in the '6' series is more than ample to drive a simple MPI setup, which is what Redzone was saying in a similar way. Most of the 'advanced' features in high end ECU's really only come into their own when using datalogging and/or in motorsport applications (anti-lag, individual cylinder trimming etc). All you need/want to control in a street driven Starion is fuel/ignition/boost and maybe aircon and fan control.