Page 1 of 1

Gear Change Issue : ))

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 6:39 am
by filiboy
JB Starion. The problem is very awkward. The GEarbox is ok. I got myself a new OEM clutch, OEM Master and Slave cylinders. After the installment, I bled the air out as it has to be done : )). Nevertheless I change gears very hard, and sometimes I need to press the clutch more than once so I can change gear !? Could you give me any ideas how to fix that ? THank you !!!

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:26 pm
by Vulpes
sounds to me like the slave cylinder is not disengaging the clutch properly, I would bleed the line again.

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:37 pm
by coop1er
When you are changing up a gear, you are trying to slow the clutch disc, input shaft, counter shaft and gear to the speed of the main shaft. The easiest way to do this faster, is to lose some weight from these rotating components. The easiest way to lose weight is to fit a lighter clutch disc.

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:37 pm
by Vulpes
I guess thats all true Coop but still he has installed standard components so it all should work for him.

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 6:52 pm
by enthuzed
Vulpes wrote:sounds to me like the slave cylinder is not disengaging the clutch properly, I would bleed the line again.
No doubt the ball under the clutch fork is worn so if you're not popping slave pistons the issue is less obvious. A washer that spaces the ball out further could give you more leverage with the same pedal travel because it raises the pivot point.

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 9:36 pm
by Vulpes
I had a similar issue now come to think of it, my clutch would not disengage at all I ended up making a longer shaft that comes out of the slave cylinder out of an old screw driver, I just pulled out the shaft from the slave which just comes out real easy then made a new shaft a bit longer, worked a treat but to this day i still do not understand why. A while ago I changed gearboxes and clutch and slave and it all worked again as standard so i dont know. Anyway try it it will probably work.

Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 9:59 pm
by John196701
Filiboy
the problem is probably the push rod adjustment on the master cylinder, they are adjustable, is there much free play in the clutch pedal, the other this is the clutch pedal height is adjustable, is the clutch pedal the same height as the brake pedal or lower, you can also bring it up a little higher and adjust the master cylinder push rod, make sure after making the adjustment, there is a little free play to make sure the master cylinder returns fully so the clutch does not ride

Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:50 am
by enthuzed
The specs for an Aussie car fron memory is:
Pedal height 180-185mm from floor (push a metal ruler hard into the carpet or pull the carpet back.
Freeplay 5-10mm. Do this adjustment whilst upside down checking for any detectable movement of the pushrod/clevis.
Note: there's usually that much play in the pedal itself due to elongation of the hole in the pedal. One of my pedals was so bad that I swapped the whole thing. Glad I have spares!