What cam do you use?

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
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bigmoz
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What cam do you use?

Post by bigmoz »

Hey people,
just wondering what cam you have in your car? The wheels are finally in motion for my rebuild and im looking at putting in an upgraded cam. Anyone got a suggestion or one for sale that they recommend?

and yes im keeping the car SOHC

moz
85 JB, forged, larger valves, ported and polished microtech, sonata mpi, td06 20g, intercooler, willwood brakes, koni suspention, 3.9LSD and more shit i cant remember

82 JA, blueprint SIRUS 4g63, dumped and a cooler 17's, exhaust... DEAD :(
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cam

Post by 4gpwr »

I could never find a billet cam , so you can get your cam reground , or if you want something bigger , welded and ground camshaft .
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www.18u
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Post by www.18u »

What head are you using? 63 sohc or 64? Are you running hydraulic or manual tappets?

Regrinds from either Ivan Tighe or Camtec will be a easy option. I know of a ex lancer rally car that picked up 30hp at the wheels with a Tighe cam.
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Post by quest »

I've read a few positive comments on Tighe cams on oz/nz rolla forums. Anybody ever run a Tighe cam in a sohc staz motor ?

Cams can make all the difference in the world. One starquestor measured his performance cam and was unhappy, so he persisted that Schnieder Cams(popular for our 2.6) grind it "properly" to his satisfaction.
That TBI G54 netted almost a 100hp gain reward for his attention to detail!
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bigmoz
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Post by bigmoz »

the motor is a 4g63 and i know this may sound dumb but how do i know if its hydraulic or manual tappets? i can take photos of the head if thats any help
85 JB, forged, larger valves, ported and polished microtech, sonata mpi, td06 20g, intercooler, willwood brakes, koni suspention, 3.9LSD and more shit i cant remember

82 JA, blueprint SIRUS 4g63, dumped and a cooler 17's, exhaust... DEAD :(
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Post by enthuzed »

Assuming the tappet gear has not been messed with then it's most likely to have adjustable tappets. i.e. A 12mm nut and a Phillips head shaped screw in the middle of that. Could be either an 2l L300 head or a starion head though. The starion one has the bigger chambers (lowers the comp) but unless you have the head off it's hard to know what it's got.
The 64 head (2.4L L300) if the tappet gear hasn't been changed will have hydraulic tappets so there'll be nowhere to get a spanner & screwdriver happening. It runs bigger valves & ports, combustion chambers are different shape & requires a different head gasket. And yes, a different cam too.
Once again it's hard to check this stuff with the head on the block still but if your timing belt is off and you can fully turn the cam with the bottom end at TDC then its a 63 head. If you can't it's a 64 or there's something seriously wrong.
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Post by bigmoz »

ok with that info its manual tappets on a 63 head the head is not put together in a motor yet its just sitting in my lounge room onto of the tv cabinet collecting dust
85 JB, forged, larger valves, ported and polished microtech, sonata mpi, td06 20g, intercooler, willwood brakes, koni suspention, 3.9LSD and more shit i cant remember

82 JA, blueprint SIRUS 4g63, dumped and a cooler 17's, exhaust... DEAD :(
big moz (chopyou@hotmail.com)
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Post by redzone »

get your stock cam reground to camtech stage 2 specs, worked really well in a couple of cars i've done, only very very slightly roughed up the idle..
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Post by fugazi »

redzone wrote:get your stock cam reground to camtech stage 2 specs...
And what would those specs be?
As I've got a spare cam... :D
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Post by TOMSUN »

fugazi wrote:
redzone wrote:get your stock cam reground to camtech stage 2 specs...
And what would those specs be?
As I've got a spare cam... :D
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/
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Post by fugazi »

TOMSUN wrote:
fugazi wrote:
redzone wrote:get your stock cam reground to camtech stage 2 specs...
And what would those specs be?
As I've got a spare cam... :D
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/
Thank's!

How small basecircle can one have without fucking up the geometry?
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Post by TOMSUN »

fugazi wrote:
TOMSUN wrote:
fugazi wrote: And what would those specs be?
As I've got a spare cam... :D
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/
Thank's!

How small basecircle can one have without fucking up the geometry?
The biggest Camtec will regrind is a Stage 2.
Stage 3 and bigger need a mythical billet or be built up by welding.
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Post by redzone »

fugazi wrote:
TOMSUN wrote:
fugazi wrote: And what would those specs be?
As I've got a spare cam... :D
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/
Thank's!

How small basecircle can one have without fucking up the geometry?
probably about half an inch at the valve before it got too extreme, anything over 420 thou i'd recommend elephant feet though.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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Post by fugazi »

redzone wrote:probably about half an inch at the valve before it got too extreme, anything over 420 thou i'd recommend elephant feet though.
Yes... but your talking about lift... right?
I mean the basecircle on the cam... on this pic marked 34
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Elephant feet?
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Post by redzone »

decreasing the lobe base circle diameter will increase the rocker ratio, wont be a problem trust me.

elephant feet = swivel feet etc, porsches use them.. screw into the rocker in place of the regular tappets.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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