Austarion

what do use think is best to put in a jb? ive got prices and vr4 is 1500 cheaper

toms starion wrote:what do use think is best to put in a jb? ive got prices and vr4 is 1500 cheaper

IMHO $1500 WOULD BE WELL SPENT ON FORGED RODS & PISTONS + A MLS HEAD GASKET

7 bolt (e1/2/3) motors are prone to crankwalk when matched with high end clutches.

Vr4 motors are in much higher demand and should supposedly be more expensive. The 6 bolt motor is tougher.

I wouldn't spend a dime changing anything in any old mitsu motor either, I'd keep a composite head gasket.
Just make sure balance shafts are spinning freely & their bearings look good, and check the rod bearings.
I'd even stick to oe mitsu electronics, since lotsa folks achieve excellent reliable street performance using such oe equipment

bigmoz wrote:http://www.gsr-evo-club.net/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12898

argh i need more money

You always hear that evo3 is no good for crank walk, but I run a button clutch with 300rwhp scorpion/sigma box and only problem was custom p/s belt came off.

bigmoz wrote:http://www.gsr-evo-club.net/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12898

With the way the AUD is now, spend a little more and get a Bushur motor delivered.

A lot of the info you hear about crankwalk with Evo 1-3 is very exaggerated. It does happen, but the cause is using a stupidly too heavy clutch, and riding it all the time or sitting at the lights with your foot on the clutch mostly.
A lot of guys ponder getting an Evo or VR4 engine. Then get an Evo engine and proceed to put in VR4 conrods and pistons lol.

Basically, if in standard form, and or making up to say 450hp at the flywheel, the Evo motor is better (standard rods and pistons are fine). It revs much more freely, and the flow rate of the head is better. This translates to more useable power.

If you can get an early Evo motor, I would use that with just some very basic mild porting and a thicker head gasket if it`s an Evo III. I would either reuse the standard rods ( shotpeened ), or source Evo type rods. The only way a VR4 engine will rev like an Evo is with a lightened flywheel, but you lose torque.

My Evo made an easy 220kwatw without any internal mods other than a thicker head gasket. Was reliable as and stupidly fast, much faster than many cars with `more power` because the power was all useable.
I flogged the shite out of it and competed in many events for 3 years, and it never ever skipped a beat. From what I last heard, it`s still going strong.

Having said all that, if you are using aftermarket turbo, manifold etc., then $ wise the best option perhaps is getting an NA Galant 4G63 and getting new internals etc. But I just wanted to make the point that the Evo motor is a better motor from my experience.

why a thicker head gasket on the Evo III engine, do you feel the stock CR was too high?

It was swallowing 20psi with a T04 front wheel in a TD05H ;)

I spoke to Vince Rigoli the other day. He said a VR4 bottom end with the EVO head would a good combo, due to the port sizes on the EVO head.

Side by side you can see the difference between the EVO (1, 2, 3) rods and the VR4, with the VR4 being alot thicker.

I told Vince I was looking at going stroker, but he said for low 9's, all I would really need is stock crank and rods with good pistons and bearings.

For the small amount of money involved, I would always go with after-market rods. It really is a worth-while extra few hundred bucks. And if you're going to be doing 9's, it aint going to have an easy life, so the better you can build it now, the longer it's all going to last.

Mr Ralliart wrote:A lot of the info you hear about crankwalk with Evo 1-3 is very exaggerated. It does happen, ...

Exactly!
How many EVO's are there out there? How many have had probs with CW?
And... it sure happend and will happen again... but not everyone have got the right skills to build a motor/car (or driving it!). To many out there with 5 thumbs on each hand...