Austarion

Hi Guys does anyone do a lightened flywheel here in oz? I've seen fidanzas go on ebay but would prefer if something local was available. going behind a twincam with a staz box.

pm cheaterparts :)

Yep, Cheaterparts does really good work.

I currently run the fidanza behind a twin cam with a supra box. Haven't had any issues.

Yep Fidanza ones are NICE! Plus having replaceable inserts saves on machining costs too. Well worth the $$$

There aren't any issues with running the lightened flywheel? Or is it just all benefits. I heard that you have sacrifices with these? Cheers

Taken from another site...

The thing that should be stressed is that they are really not for cars driven on a daily basis. A lightened flywheel will produce more responsive shifting and engine rev’s as well as generally improved acceleration throughout the gears. That is because the rotating mass (or the amount of weight the engine has to move to speed up) is drastically reduced. However lightened flywheels reduce drivability under most circumstances. Cars with lightened flywheels are more apt to stall in traffic and are harder to launch.

Personally, my car is a dedicated track car, so the lighter the better - I just have to be careful not to stall it at the start line. I give no fark for driveability. Any reduction in rotating mass of the driveline is a good thing for me.

Yeah that is what I have heard as well. But in reduction of drive ability, how noticable has it been for people who have upgraded to the fidanza flywheel?

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend doing this, but keep in mind my car is a track car, so it's a bit different to most here.

The extra response from down low is noticeable - it's a bit like having an extra 2-3psi of boost.

Yes, it's slightly more prone to stalling and I had to increase the idle speed by a hundred rpm.

If ever something goes wrong with this one, I'll look to go even lighter again next time.

If you're really concerned about reducing rotating mass of your driveline, don't ignore the clutch. A small diameter, high clamp clutch combined with a lightweight flywheel will do wonders. Keeping any weight in your driveline as close to an extended line from your crank to your diff is as important as reducing weight - it has a similar effect.

Lummy wrote: If you're really concerned about reducing rotating mass of your driveline, don't ignore the clutch. A small diameter, high clamp clutch combined with a lightweight flywheel will do wonders. Keeping any weight in your driveline as close to an extended line from your crank to your diff is as important as reducing weight - it has a similar effect.

Lummy is right on lightening - I myself like a very light rotating mass
also a track car but N/A atm not a turbo
being N/A I have under 300 ft/lb of torque so can get away with a single plate 7 1/4" tilton race clutch ( total weight 2.3 Kg ) thats the fiction and presure plate - my flywheel before the ring gear was fitted was 2.9 Kg
and also the small dia same as a 2 Lt sigma or FWD flywheel
I run a 2.6 and these days remove 2 Kg from the crank shaft with a Knife edge
the difference on the track is huge the only think that dose take a bit of practice is the standing start
although the 2.6 with the long stroke and the fact that as NA I use quite high comp ratios it not to bad

the biggest thing is down changing toe and heel is a must to stop locking the rears into corners
the revs drop quickly when off the gas and on the clutch

I posted this on sigma-galant on the flywheel build
this flywheel is in an IRPA car in SA - A twin cam turbo in an early lancer

http://www.sigma-galant.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=2764

by the way these are some of the toys I have at home to play with

cheater