Austarion

does anybody have the specs for setting the tappets on a JA, standard engine. What's the right gap and whether to set it cold or hot? I always thought that starion engines had hydraulic tappets but I saw one with screw type adjustable ones so I'm not sure if this is a silly question or not.

I'm also putting an aftermarket (home made) ECU onto the car and was wondering if anybody can give me some good starting points for the ignition timing, eg. idle advance, advance at full boost at x RPM, so on. the engine is standard so even if someone has the factory specs for the dizzy that would be a good start.

I did mine a little while ago, can't remember the settings, but it lists them under the bonnet (unless it's covered in oil).
Set em hot

Here's a pic of how it's done if you don't know:


If u like I can drop around on thurs or friday and give you a hand.

jakobsladderz,
have you built a Megasquirt?

No, it's my own design fuel + ignition computer. Sequential injection, wasted spark ignition, idle speed control, VS commodore MAF and lots of other things. I've had one in my turbo magna for a while and am just about ready for prototype #2. I'm getting the laptop software sorted at the moment.
I've got some 400cc injectors, a dizzy of a MPFI 4g63 and a modified FWD manifold, all just about ready to go as well.

shit, you sound like a bit of a genius..

do you write the software yourself?

Yep, ECU is written in C and assembler (intel C196 chip). The laptop software was written in C++ and ran under dos but I'm re-writing it in Visual Basic so it runs better under windows.

It's taken a while to do, and theres always things to improve but it was a good feeling when I first got the engine running, and an even better one when I drove the car once I'd tuned it a bit. The magna was originally carby and, although I don't have dyno figures before I'd say it was around 70 hp at the wheels with a carby, and it was dynoed at 90 with the EFI on it.

I can't wait to get the Starion running on 1 Bar with a decent intake and intercooler...

I have a base map from a haltech which should get you started (i have the spreadsheet of data)
It's designed for a VR4 motor but it's esentially still a 4g63. Let me know if you want it...

Steve.

Chris 83JA wrote:I did mine a little while ago, can't remember the settings, but it lists them under the bonnet (unless it's covered in oil).
Set em hot

Here's a pic of how it's done if you don't know:


If u like I can drop around on thurs or friday and give you a hand.

On my staz it has the correct settings on the valve cover.
First time i adusted the valves i did it the same as the pic but they were still quite noisy afterwards.
the second time I put the feeler in between de cam and the lifter (got the idea from a workshop manual of my friends Prelude) and now it's alot more quiet and seems to run smoother.
Atleast it was alot easier to do because the darn thing kept sliding out when I wanted to use it between the valve and the lifter.

Here's some numbers from my ignition map, but they are a GUIDE ONLY and I've backed the numbers off a bit. There are way too many variables to give any definate numbers. I'm running 8.5:1 compression and standard B7ES NGK plugs.

If it pings at all, don't drive on it, but it should give you enough to make a map that you can drive on if you must. Make sure your fuel is about right (between at least 11:1 and 14.7:1) before you start to play with ignition too, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. If in doubt, stay a bit on the rich side.

At no load (about -70kPa vacuum), I run between 10 degrees at idle ramping quickly to about 35 degrees as early as 1500rpm, ramping slowly to about 40 degrees at about 4500 rpm.

At 0 psi load (atmospheric/WOT no boost), 10 degrees at 1000rpm ramping up to about 27 degrees at 1500, 32 degrees at 4500 and above.

At 6psi boost, 22 degrees at 3000, 25 degrees at 4500 all the way to 6000rpm.



Send me a PM if you want more details.

champion effort jakob, would love to see what you have constructed.

will, what ecu are you using?

Merlin, its Haltech E11.

thanks will.
i may get a chance to do some tuning with a haltec on a staz soon.
i have downloaded the manuals, havnt got pc software yet.

I was thinking yesterday about the fairly low comp ratio of a standard starion. is the 7:1 comp ratio of the standard engine the reason for the (generally) bad fuel economy of a starion? Will, does your engine give better highway mileage with a higher comp ratio than the standard? Did it limit the maximum boost you could run?

i think standard cr is 7.6:1? mine has been raised but i havn't noticed any difference yet. on standard boost still but was too long ago to remember what standard boost felt like on the old engine. the dyno should be able to tell me tho :P

jakobsladderz wrote:I was thinking yesterday about the fairly low comp ratio of a standard starion. is the 7:1 comp ratio of the standard engine the reason for the (generally) bad fuel economy of a starion? Will, does your engine give better highway mileage with a higher comp ratio than the standard? Did it limit the maximum boost you could run?

I haven't driven two Starions with the same setup with just the difference in compression so I can't comment. I got the car this way and my other Starion was heaps different.

Merlin, Let me know if you need any help with the Haltech. I should be able to provide some input - might even have a base map depending on what ECU and setup you use.