RHS steering arm
RHS steering arm
Just wondering if all RHS Starion steering arms are only adjustable in 360 degree turns?
I'd like to do a small adjustment to the toe on my RHS, but I'm unable as the steering arm isn't finely adjustable - only in 360 degree turns (by turning the ball joint).
If this is the case with all RHS steering arms, are there after-market items available?
Thanks.
I'd like to do a small adjustment to the toe on my RHS, but I'm unable as the steering arm isn't finely adjustable - only in 360 degree turns (by turning the ball joint).
If this is the case with all RHS steering arms, are there after-market items available?
Thanks.
Doesn't the arm have threads on both sides? in a way that you can adjust the lenght without taking off the balljoint?
Atleast that is how it works on my LHS..
Atleast that is how it works on my LHS..
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83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
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Re: RHS steering arm
I could find anything for the sigma ( uses staz links atm )Lummy wrote: If this is the case with all RHS steering arms, are there after-market items available?
Thanks.
9.5 Front suspension components: Steering tie rods may be replaced provided they are derived from an eligible vehicle. Stub axles, steering arms
keep this in mind after market items may be naughty for the class
I had thought of machining and threading the drivers side to make both side adjustable but I'm sure that is also ruled out
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Lummy wrote:on the LHS. But not on the right.
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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yes you do - I'm not sure how Lummys F/E goes I had a little problem early in the piecesigmaproject wrote:so wouldnt that just mean that you set your toe in from the left hand arm
when still running the GE sigma RHS link ,by the time you dialed on some camber ( and with ao32s ) we needed to neg 5 1/2 deg and of cause trying to make the track as wide as poss
when you got a few threads on the rhs tie rod end the steering box was nowhere near centre when straight ahead
it was ok at my local hillclimb when you were using 10+mm toeout
but fast tracks ( ie Phillip Island )where you needed to back that off to 2 -3 mm toe out
anyway it has become easier now with the ao48r that we now have as a control tyre they run better with 4 - 4 1/2 deg so the bottom of the struts have been pulled back in a bit . Also going to the staz rhs link is a bit longer
of cause it would make adjusting toe at the track quicker when camber changes are being played with
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Yeah, ok, thanks guys, I'm still trying to get my head around all this.
I can set the LHS to match the RHS and then just reset the steering wheel to suit the new "straight ahead" position, yeah?
The problem there is, the steering wheel can only move in about 30 degree "notches" - but that's not a big issue. I can put up with an off-centre steering wheel provided the wheels are all pointing in the right direction.
I can set the LHS to match the RHS and then just reset the steering wheel to suit the new "straight ahead" position, yeah?
The problem there is, the steering wheel can only move in about 30 degree "notches" - but that's not a big issue. I can put up with an off-centre steering wheel provided the wheels are all pointing in the right direction.
Last edited by Lummy on Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Lummy I thought I might post the pics here in the forum
however if you need to check or change things at the track
this is a basic tool cheap to make and easy to use by your self
its just a frame made of 25 x 25 sq tube with some feet so it will stand
there are up rights that are to the centre height of the wheel
in the second pic you will see that there is a 20 x 20 sq tube that can slide in and out
so to set/check up your toe say its toe out . make sure that the steering is straight ahead ( or to the left somewhere in your case lummy )
then put the tool to the rear of the tyres so it is touching both and mark the 20 mm tube how far it is slide out of the 25 mm tube with a texta or eng chalk . then move the tool to the front expanding the tool to touch the tyres at the front now measure the gap from the mark you made while the tool was at rear to the 25 mm tube and it will give you you toe out.
now the electronic wheel aline is more acurate but when your on your back in the pits trying to ajust toe its just fine
when I setting up off the track I have a good wheel aline guy with an electronic wheel aline machine ( and will set up to what I wont )Lummy
Mate, if you could take a pic of that and explain how it measures toe, that would be greatly appreciated. I've just spent the past several hours string-lining the car and that sucks.
however if you need to check or change things at the track
this is a basic tool cheap to make and easy to use by your self
its just a frame made of 25 x 25 sq tube with some feet so it will stand
there are up rights that are to the centre height of the wheel
in the second pic you will see that there is a 20 x 20 sq tube that can slide in and out
so to set/check up your toe say its toe out . make sure that the steering is straight ahead ( or to the left somewhere in your case lummy )
then put the tool to the rear of the tyres so it is touching both and mark the 20 mm tube how far it is slide out of the 25 mm tube with a texta or eng chalk . then move the tool to the front expanding the tool to touch the tyres at the front now measure the gap from the mark you made while the tool was at rear to the 25 mm tube and it will give you you toe out.
now the electronic wheel aline is more acurate but when your on your back in the pits trying to ajust toe its just fine
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2.6 sigma IPRA spec
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E21 323 JPS bimmer
type 7 clone sports car
2.6 sigma IPRA spec
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E21 323 JPS bimmer
type 7 clone sports car
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Re: RHS steering arm
Lummy wrote:Just wondering if all RHS Starion steering arms are only adjustable in 360 degree turns?
having not seen the driver side tie rod on a left hand drive staz I wonder if it could work on our rhs it would be handy if it did seeing than it must be adjustablefrom starquest.com wrote: Hey guys,
So I'm constantly changing my suspension settings ( thanks Firestone for lifetime alignment). The only problem is the front toe. Every time we need to change it we have to break the tie rod on the passenger front and hold the tire by hand and kinda cross our fingers and pray as we attempt to set it. Major pain in the A**. Only the driver side has the adjustable link. ? is. Does anyone make an aftermarket adjuster for the front passenger side tie-rod?
Thanks,
If it do work I think it could be IPRA legal being that starion were a FIA group A car and would have been able to use left or right hand steer
and as FIA group A cars do fit into IPRA so do the parts of these cars
still looking into it Lummy
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2.6 sigma IPRA spec
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E21 323 JPS bimmer
type 7 clone sports car
2.6 sigma IPRA spec
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