ja jumping up revs when changing gears

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wildlines
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ja jumping up revs when changing gears

Post by wildlines »

something that i would like to run past some people who know about starions before i start spending hours on end trying to find the problem. my starion has been doing something weird... when changing gears... only under vacuum or up to atmospheric pressure, the revs jump up like 1000 rpm and then drop back down.. but when changing gears under boost its fine... i thought it would maybe be something like the timing advance system or a sticky emissions valve or solenoid of some sort, but im not actually to familiar with the single point injection or starions as a whole for that matter... its my first one and the first one ive worked on too. if anyone has any insight i would really appreciate the help... if you need any more specific information i can try and supply you with it.. cheers. and no my clutch/accelerator co-ordination skills are not to blame... haha
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bigd
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Post by bigd »

Could be the idle control sensor - You can disconnect it but it'll need to be manually warmed up. If you want a pic of it I can go take one for you.
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

bigd wrote:Could be the idle control sensor - You can disconnect it but it'll need to be manually warmed up. If you want a pic of it I can go take one for you.
mind reader :P stepper motor?????????????
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
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wildlines
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Post by wildlines »

idle speed control sensor or the stepper motor.. they are kind of the same thing arent they? hey mate, if you could take a picture of the manifold and kind of point out whats what, that would be much appreciated... i disconnected a big probly 7 pin harness connector that controls a few things, coolant temp, what looks like tps, and another little black thing on the side of the manifold which kinda looks like a variable resistor of some sort, but ye i disconnected that and didnt really do much... i must say, this is one of the better forums ive been on.... people actually help!
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

wildlines wrote:idle speed control sensor or the stepper motor.. they are kind of the same thing arent they? hey mate, if you could take a picture of the manifold and kind of point out whats what, that would be much appreciated... i disconnected a big probly 7 pin harness connector that controls a few things, coolant temp, what looks like tps, and another little black thing on the side of the manifold which kinda looks like a variable resistor of some sort, but ye i disconnected that and didnt really do much... i must say, this is one of the better forums ive been on.... people actually help!
I don't have a stock manifold n e more but I did have probs in the past and ended up tossing the s/motor =end of probs
HOPEFULLY SOMEONE WILL POST PICS 4 U
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
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wildlines
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Post by wildlines »

ye, i would really like to go twin cam but i think i will just end up goin mpi. bit cheaper and less headache. but if anyone can help me out with some pics, that would be much appreciated....
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bigd
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Post by bigd »

Yeah just realised I don't have a car with the earlier injection type! Sorry.
In the pic below it is the left of the two round connectors which controls the idle, can't remember if this is also on the earlier injection type. Sorry about the dusty motor!

Image

Someone may have a pic of JA style injection which may be more help.

edit: LOL at the loveheart wasn't intentional.
JD_Stazza_Brendan
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Post by JD_Stazza_Brendan »

the JA system doesnt use a electric solenoid, That only came in on the JB. JA uses wax pellet system for warmup, then there is a vacuum operated diaphragm for the idle down. Theres a vacuum line that runs from the base of the TB to this. Sits up beside the intake.
-JA Starion with JD bits , Forged engine, Heaps of mods (parked up)
-BFII XR6 Turbo Ute , Here comes 400hp for 2k :p
-77 Mazda 323 drag car. 13bt rotary project.

Yes i have too many toys.
SOHC POWER
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Post by JD_Stazza_Brendan »

Dont know why but i had a stock JA manifold in shed LOL Its MPI country here..

This is the diaphram. This one is hooked up to the last vacuum nipple (closest to firewall) on the base of throttle body.
Image
-JA Starion with JD bits , Forged engine, Heaps of mods (parked up)
-BFII XR6 Turbo Ute , Here comes 400hp for 2k :p
-77 Mazda 323 drag car. 13bt rotary project.

Yes i have too many toys.
SOHC POWER
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wildlines
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Post by wildlines »

ok so that diaphram controls the cold start up, hence the coolant lines running through it, so when engine is hot, that should be practically be disengaged?? which would maybe make me think it wouldnt be to fault? i will disconnect it and see how we go, another thing, is this the only means of cold start? my ja idles at like 2-3000 rpm on cold start, is there any way of lowering this?
JD_Stazza_Brendan
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Post by JD_Stazza_Brendan »

taken a better pic which is inline with the throttle.
First pic is of the wax pellet system which only controls cold start. As the pellet melts the mechanism allows the throttle to go back down to the base idle.
Image

This is the system which should control how the motor idles down after you come off the throttle. Only connections are the vacuum line and the rod which goes down to the where the accelerator cable connects.
Image
-JA Starion with JD bits , Forged engine, Heaps of mods (parked up)
-BFII XR6 Turbo Ute , Here comes 400hp for 2k :p
-77 Mazda 323 drag car. 13bt rotary project.

Yes i have too many toys.
SOHC POWER
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wildlines
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Post by wildlines »

hey thanks for your help guys, i think im going to remove that diaphram altogether and see how it goes.... let you know how it goes.
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JPC
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Post by JPC »

Chances are the diaphragm in the dashpot is stuffed.

In the pic in JD_Stazza_Brendan's post above, there's a bolt to the left of centre in the circled bit. If you loosen this, it will allow some air bleed and and might solve your problem.

Try a quarter turn at a time. In neutral, rev the engine and see how how long it takes to get back to normal idle speed - you're looking for about 3 seconds. Once you get the right setting, put a dab of glue on the bolt to keep it in that position.
Starion nutter since 1988...
1983 JA, 1984 JA, 1985 JB (all rego'd, all running :D )
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wildlines
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Post by wildlines »

hey thanks for the help guys, i just removed it altogether... its just for emmisions i take it...
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JPC
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Post by JPC »

wildlines wrote:... its just for emmisions i take it...
Nope, it's for a smooth return to idle speed.
Starion nutter since 1988...
1983 JA, 1984 JA, 1985 JB (all rego'd, all running :D )
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