Austarion

Removed the distributor t check the vacuum asvance device underneath.
How do I set up the timing, I've tried with the gun, but noit sure how to do it.

Will explain it a bit better. :)

Have been having proper nightmares where it is getting worse and worse. It's got to the point where it's constantly running on 2 cylinders. After trying everything, I check the vacuum advance cylinder under the dizzy. I extract the dizzy, and check, and it seems fine (Everything moves). So I put it back in, and remember this needs setting up.
On the bottom is the 10" | 10" mark. The | mark lines up perfectly with the hole mark on the top pulley. It's now a matter of how I put the dizzy back in and have it positioned correctly. I have 'lined' the rotor arm up with '1' point.

How do I do this properly, as I'm not going any further without advice - there is no point!

I have used a timing light with very temporary help (would be handy having a starter button in the engine bay wouldn't it?), and the light is intermittent. ??? There is spark, I'm sure of it???

I've checked the engine pdf in technical - it says to match the two mating marks on the housing and the shaft. Is this right? And then just secure it (somehow), and plunge it in.

I've done this on Vauxhalls a few times (called Holdens over there).

With the engine at TDC, you line the mark on the dizzy drive shaft to the mark on the dizzy drive housing, with the cap off take note where the rotor is pointing (should be #1), now slide the dizzy into the head holding the rotor. You will notice the rotor will probably move so it no longer points to number #1 - pull the dizzy out again and then move the rotor in the opposite direction one tooth and try again until the the rotor points where it should be pointing.

Once that's done, use chalk or twink to make the timing mark on the crank pulley and front cover stand out. Then with the engine running and idling at about 750-800rpm with the vac advance disconnected the timing should be about 5 deg BTDC.

I doubt a dud vac advance unit (even if it is leaking) would make the engine run on two cylinders.

With the engine at TDC, the rotor button should point near 8 o'clock. In future, always set the engine to top dead centre as it makes everything easier to reset later on. You need to put it in with the rotor at about 6 o'clock (I think that's right) as the rotor will spin as it goes in and meshes with the gears.

The car should start even if you are a bit out, then adjust the timing to suit. If you can't get the adjustment right, dizzy is one tooth off, you need to pull it again and reinsert rotated a little more. You will see what I mean when you do it.

Thanks, needed to know where the rotor was meant to be pointed!!
I will try that tommorow!
It's running on less than four cylinders because the plugs were black with soot. I am replacing the map sensor, as it's the last thing to replace.

Also, you can check you actually have TDC by pulling the top plastic cover and looking where the cam wheel is. If the notch is at 9 o'clock, you have TDC. If it's 3 o'clock, turn the crank one revolution.

Otherwise if you try to start it, it will backfire and carry on as you fire on the exhaust stroke.... LOL

have you replaced the plugs or given them a good clean up? is the gap set right? It could have leaking injectors causing them to foul up. Could also be the AFM is not reading right and is telling the ECU to inject too much fuel. I know when my intercooler hose partially blew off I was getting mega richness problems just above idle - it wasn't until it fully blew off I knew the cause.

What's the condition the cap, rotor and leads like?

The cap and rotor are new, and I have new leads, but I suspected the new ones and put the olds back on (which I will correct tonight).
I had set up my 2.0 to the correct gap setting as instructed on the metal panel by the engine. Think it's 1mm or .75mm? I have gapped them already.
I've also replaced the injectors with replacement ones. I have actually had the car running 100% fine, until the MAP sensor was cutting the fuel!
Now it runs like the head gasket has gone (which it hasn't ;) ).

When it wouldn't start, the plugs were soaked in fuel, which is probably down to the totally out timing!

Tried this, it does run ... on one cylinder???
The marks on the end of the distibutor - do you line up with the pin going through the centre or the little circular notch?

The car also goes DUNK and doesn't turn anymore. I checked the belt and there is a big cut gauged through the edge. :x :x :x I think something's in there. It doesn't get any easier ...

So the cambelt is damaged or broken?

Vacuum advance not working is definitely not going to make it run on any less cylinders. It does sound like the timing is way out of whack, although if it's out more than 20deg it usually just wont run at all.

The pin on the shaft should line up with the mark/notch on the housing. If in doubt line it up and place the distributor cap on and check if the rotor is pointing at #1 ignition lead. But remember as you slide the distributor back into the head the nature of the gear drive is going to make it turn and not line up where it should in the end, so you have to compensate by counter-turning the shaft and making sure the rotor points the correct way (where it will be pointing when the marks are lined up with the distributor removed) once it's inserted.

Make sense?

Belt is intact, but somehow, something has gauged a complete line round the whole of the belt. It's about 1mm deep?! :glare:

Have lined the distributor up with the little notch, and not the pin. I'll do the pin tommorow night. The plugs were totally flooded, I'm going to buy new ones tommorow, as they're black as night as well.

Are you sure the cam is timed correctly? It is possible the belt has stretched and the cam gear has slipped a tooth or two. I would be pulling off the cam covers and checking what has gouged the belt anyway, perhaps it's a good idea to replace the belt along with the tensioner (and balance shaft belt if you still have balance shafts).

there is a bolt on the oil pan right under the timing belt that must be
a short 10mm bolt. if you replaced it with a longer one it will damage the
timing belt. i have seen alot of this on rebuilds

also these might be helpful