Austarion

To all with Starion Drift machines,

Forgive my ingorance but How you turn our cars into one of them. Could the gurus please do step by step and post it up.

Thanks in advance

I don't reckon they are as driftable as Nissans and Toyotas, there's just something about the suspension which is best setup for grip racing rather than drift. I've noticed (and it's been noted in most reviews of the Starion) is the back will sometimes feel like it's about to loose grip but it doesn't, and then there's times when it will just loose grip completely.

Things like the suspension geometry in the rear, there's no real adjustment for camber and toe (unless you make camber plates for the top hats I guess). There's no off the shelf aftermarket support like the Toyotas and Nissans have.

Plus Starions are just too rare and cool to drift :P Last thing you want to do is put it into a wall sideways and write it off.

Just found some drifting videos of Starions on youtube which makes it look easy:









but if you get it wrong...



Leave the drifting to the dirty old C33 Laurels, S13/S14/S15 Silvias, R32/R33/R34 Skylines, JZX90/100 MarkII's/Chasers/Crestas and SXE10 Altezzas - there's plenty of them to ruin :P

Widebody cop car.... :drool: wrecked :glare:

:( this is his page, a few other starion vid on it:
http://www.youtube.com/user/DJpowerHaus
check out the one of his facials

any rwd vehicle can drift.. there are even vids of people drifting trucks...



Thing about the staz is.. parts are not readily available.. and that's more so about body panels than power ups..

you drift an ugly ass s13, no one cares when you crash it.. they don't look any worse afterwards.. body panels that have been torn to shreds are easily replaced.. fiberglass front and rear bars are cheap and plenty.. This is one reason the 'onevia' was born.. s13 front parts are easier to come by and cheaper than 180sx parts.. so a lot of budget drifters with 180s changed their front ends to s13 ones because they were ugly and cheap and no one cared about busting them up.

If you bust up a staz front quarter panel, can you go to your local wreckers and ask for another one? (It would be nice if we could get fiberglass copies to drift/ race with and then put the originals back on for normal driving.. :D )

plus the suspension setup on those cars sucked to begin with.. unbalanced, too rigid..

The staz suspension, on the other hand.. was designed for old school circuit racing.. (since drifting wasn't really a sport at the time..) and as such, it specializes in that and does it extremely well.. the chassis has a fair amount of roll, and this helps maintain grip and balance around corners.. unfortunately this makes it harder to control long drifts.. so the first trick would be to ruin the suspension by stiffening it too much.. stiffer springs, dampers (or coilovers) and swaybars.. you need the rear end to lose grip easily..

The other thing is.. while good circuit cars require a more or less 50/50 weight distribution for optimum handling, dorifto cars need to be heavier at the front.. the re amemiya rx7 for example has had a lot of stuff moved forward to make the balance closer to 70/30.. even stuff like the fuel tank have been moved well forward of it's original location.. This is why muscle cars are actually good at drifing.. just a shame they're too heavy to be nimble.. This is also why you don't see a lot of people using things like bmws to drift.. in a word, they're too well balanced.. and so is the staz..

and i have reason to believe it's a lot of effort to change the weight balance..

all that said though, there's absolutely no reason for you to not try, just be prepared to crash and fork out money.. but who knows.. if someone with a staz gets to the d1gp, our cars might be appreciated a bit more? :D

I'm a racer at heart, but with very little experience (i.e. none ), so this is just what i've observed.. I'm sure the experienced racers out there will correct me if i've said something silly :)

wow.. i can't believe i typed up all that shit... sorry if i've bored anyone to tears / sleep

No, I think you pretty much explained it all there.

thrash wrote:(It would be nice if we could get fiberglass copies to drift/ race with and then put the originals back on for normal driving.. :D )

does anyone know or can get an estimate for the $$'s needed to fix that situation???

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ about that much?

Thanks guys,
I love my starion so i dont intend to crash it nor am I talkin about serious Driftin no I was more or less thinkin of doing the odd donuts every now and then.

but hey thanks Trash....thats a good run down you wrote.

cheers

ss

benny wrote:

thrash wrote:(It would be nice if we could get fiberglass copies to drift/ race with and then put the originals back on for normal driving.. :D )

does anyone know or can get an estimate for the $$'s needed to fix that situation???

To get a smallish part made.....$600 for the mould and about $120 per part based on 20 parts. I did the excercise a little while ago.
To get a guard made I would expect double, and the volume wouldn't be big so more $$$

NiuginiStaz wrote:but hey thanks Trash....

bwahahahaha it' tHrash you bastard :x

rofl

benny wrote:

thrash wrote:(It would be nice if we could get fiberglass copies to drift/ race with and then put the originals back on for normal driving.. :D )

does anyone know or can get an estimate for the $$'s needed to fix that situation???

i was gonna do front guards after the JD bumpers sold a few but no one bought em so.....

we all lose.

not making anymore starion fibreglass bits until the last one's i've done sell enought to fund the next bits.

ON TOPIC

this is what u need (i've done a few track days)

1)adjustable camber tops with 3 degrees neg dialled in

2)stiff low suspension (mookeeh coilovers look promising - as seen on starquestclub site) low king springs and koni's are too soft even..

3)tight LSD diff

4)non standard pistons (either cast or forged VR4 style)

5)something like a TD05H16G or KKR430 conversion (responsive turbo)

6)aftermarket computer and multipoint conversion

pretty much in that order too. or swap the LSD with the strut tops.