Engine Issues On Startup

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Starion_Turbo
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Engine Issues On Startup

Post by Starion_Turbo »

Hi

I will describe the main points below:

When starting car in the morning car will run like on 3 cylinders and only idle at 500rpm. Regardless of the throttle position revs won't build but can produce a pop noise from engine like it's stopped firing then started aain.
When a large amount of throttle is applied car will build up boost to about 7psi at only 500rpm and massive turbo whine but revs still won't go up.

Given a few minutes the revs can eventually be coaxed up, still like on 3 cyliners to about 3000rpm then after a revving to about 4000 it will idle propperly at 1200 - 1400rpm.

Once the above has happened I can reverse out the driveway and onto road. At this point into first gear and car will accelerate to 2500rpm at a crawl and then will go fine. Large throttle under 2000rpm will produce 7psi boost and whining at 1000rpm or less but car will go no faster so I apply light throttle without boost at say -2psi then after about 100m car will slowly build rpm and run alright for the 86km trek to work almost all of which is highway accept for passing through towns.

Some very strange symptoms there hopefully someone will recognise them, has had this happen or can suggest something.


The plugs are just new B7ES, leads not old 10.5 eagle, timing was at 5degrees (I know it should be about 8) but I can't check it as my light won't fit onto 10.5mm leads.

I thought perhaps too much fuel to cause the boost raise at idle which may mean an ignition issue?
Dallas
Last edited by Starion_Turbo on Thu May 08, 2008 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Unplug the injector loom and spray with RP7. And the other connectors nearby. Could be a dodgy connection in here somewhere.
Same thing happened to me on the weekend, car sounded like a WRX.
coop1er
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Post by coop1er »

I reckon it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel when its cold. Check the coolant temp sensor and wiring for a start.
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Post by redzone »

i reckon its got a leaky injector. is it still single point??
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Starion_Turbo
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Post by Starion_Turbo »

Hi

Tried a quick clean of the injector loom, no change.

Will check out wiring to temp sensor, how can test the thing itself?

Yes its still single point JA.
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
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Post by redzone »

easiest way to check a temp sensor is a cup of hot water and a multi meter. but usually the wiring is the problem with them.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
scorpyy
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Post by scorpyy »

Turbo seized ? Like very difficult to turn by hand ? This might be creating that 7psi of Boost (aka back pressure) in your intake manifold as well.
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Starion_Turbo
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Post by Starion_Turbo »

looks like i'll have to find some time over weekend.

I'll check, loom plugs, turbo, temp sensor, TPS, Injector leak and T/B water gasket.

Will an injecter leak with the engine not running say if I remove the top of the t/b and have key turned on to ignition? or will that not activete the fuel pump?

Cheers
Dallas
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Engine needs to crank to start the fuel pump. If you flick the key and not startit, the pump will run for a few seconds and cut off. This should pressurise the system to hopefully find a leak. Remember to remove the lead from the coil to the dizzy so it has no spark...
tri26t
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Post by tri26t »

Ive run my starion heaps of times with
the injector cover in my hand,"watching
the fuel coming out and even gave it revs

"it aint rocket science"

Cheers:Phil.
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Starion_Turbo
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Post by Starion_Turbo »

Ok

So last monday car started ran for 5 seconds like shit and then died and refused to start, I have today off so pulled off the ECI top from mixer to have a look down.

Basin in intake manifold was full with fuel and some unidentified solid particled were sitting on top of the butterfly look like dregs or filings of something i'll have to check if they show up in photo.

So now testing if the fuel is sitting there from the engine cranking over on monday without starting or if leaked there when engine was off from when i gave up trying to start it and took 4x4.

My method was to soak up all the fuel in manifold fire up the fuel pump and injectors till they sprayed into a jar and then refitted the eci top to mixer and am now waiting to see if it leaks back into the manifold on its own.

I suspect possibly watever those filings are may be causing the injectors to not seal up propperly but not sure.
I did run the fuel tank to red light status so maby that brought up some things the fuel filter couldn't seperate?

Will report back later tonight to see how leak is progressing if it is leaking
Any other leak test suggestions then i'd love to hear them.

May also be fighting a water leak i'll look into it as well later.

Dallas
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
scorpyy
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Post by scorpyy »

How did things go ?
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Post by enthuzed »

Running the tank right down shouldn't be causing you any grief, the pickup is at the bottom of the tank anyway - as long as your tank filter is in good condition (the standard starion ones that look like a lantern usually get out of shape over time and allow debris in).
If you've got crap in your manifold it might be worth checking that.

Regarding your water leak, if it's coming from the manifold, then from memory that will have happened when you took the injector cover off - the manifold separates including the water galleries in it.
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
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Starion_Turbo
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Post by Starion_Turbo »

water not getting into manifold, I have replaced the manifold - Mixer gasket a while back and only removed 2 studs not all four to access eci top.
I also always drain the radiator and leave for half an hour before opening mixer so theres no or not much water to get in.

heres a photo of the particles on T/B They appear as white abnormalities:

Image


re leaking injectors, overnight I left it and this morning only a thin film of fuel on base of manifold not complete coverage but definatley wet so likley only a few drops from each nozzle, havn't yet tested spray pattern will hopefully get someone to turn key for me tonight.

Dallas
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
tri26t
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Post by tri26t »

Man leave the injector hat unbolted and start the engine
then lift the hat (slowly) maybe 75mm and your engine should still
run (mine does)

but Daves right it sounds like injectors.

Cheers:Phil.
TORQUES-CHEAP.
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