Austarion

only when head flow becomes restrictive then you start pondering DOHCs'

You are comparing two N/A engines whereas we are discussing two turbocharged engines, so these facts aren't as relevent.

However, this argument has been done on the old site many times, and has also been discussed here a bit. The main concensus is that (Froma Starion owner's veiwpoint) the SOHC is good for a certain amount of power (max made is 350rwhp - claimed). However, if you wanted more than this, then the DOHC is the way to go. On a budget of say 10K, then there wouldn't be much difference, just that it would take different mods to achieve the same power levels.

You can place many parameters on the argument, but it will never end.

I have personally gone down the SOHC path and will extract as much power as I can from it before going to a DOHC.

toysrus wrote:only when head flow becomes restrictive then you start pondering DOHCs'

Exactly. But by the same token, why not start with a DOHC and save the money as the two set ups are different. If I had things all over again I would have gone straight to DOHC. But as has been pointed out before, it depends on how far you want to go. I you want , say 200rwkw, you can achieve this with the SOHC and not have to go DOHC.

Comparing two turbo cars would be alot more difficult as I wouldn't know if the Turbo's were the same and what the standard boost was set at for each car.

I've seen a SOHC Starion 2.0L do 300Hp (225kw) at the wheels but I reckon 350Hp should be enough to do a mid 10 given 100% traction, very low weight and perfect launch ?

Fair enough.

Forget about perfect traction, and you would need alot of weight reduction...damn cars are too heavy. Best time I am aware of for an AUS Starion down the quarter is 12.4...and that was VR4-powered. But there are plenty with potential to go much quicker.

I thought Starions were supposed to be quicker than the cordias rofl

I probably shouldn't be making fun of them on this forum :D

Starions are about 250kgs heavier. ;)

Oh, and the quickest Starion in AUS down the 1/4 will be less than a 12.4...less than a 12 even by the year's end. :D

I've driven a SOHC 8v starion for 10 years, and now that I have worn the motor out I've gone to a DASH 12v. I figure it's probably in between a SOHC 8v and a DOHC 16v in performance, not knowing what a vr4 motor is like.
But the best part was the motor had only done 45000ks and I got it for $900. When I wear this one out I'll be looking for a VR4 head to put on a Starion block. I think it would save a lot of modifying and keep the cost down.
:D

I have dropped this hint a couple of times, but few ppl seem to care. so I will just blurt it out. most of you have a 20yo gearbox right? it might have been recon when ten years old, that fine, its almost ten years ago again. from what I hear they are a really good box. but for the $50 odd bucks it cost for the bell housing and about $150 - $200 to recon it yourself isn’t this worth it to run the whole vr4 and know that the box is all sweet for now? I know I was thinking of using the starion block and twin cam head. but now I am so glad I pulled the box apart because if I didn’t and just put a twin cam head in there I know that my box would have crapped itself in next to no time, and then it would not have been repairable at all. at least now I can save it and not have to buy a new one. after crapping on like that I must say I still haven’t finished the gearbox but I so sure it will take the starion internals I would almost bet my vr4 on it.

Whats involved in reconning it urself for the starion?

my box is a bit rattly and graunchy (probably cos my cluctch and master cylinder have seen better days) and i wont mind giving it a freshening up

general tools, 18" shifter, assortment of punches, comprehensive collection of curse words at your disposal. a nice workbench is good, I found a bit of 300mm dia metal tube about 6" high, this was good to sit the box on and let the shaft dangle down without having to try to balance it yourself while working. you will need someone with some bearing pullers, but you don’t need these to get it apart. a manual is good, I still haven’t found mine yet, will need it to get it back together.