Austarion

Ill just add that having a forward facing t/b makes it much easier to plumb an intercooler in under the battery. The two stock holes either side of the front are just perfect for some pipes, just remove/relocate the washer bottles.

cheers

tom.

i have taken the wiper water tank and the lights water tank out and ran my piping through there, plenty of room to relocate them at the front.
my cool is 700x300x56. with 2 inch piping
instead of curving the pipes around i sort of criss crossed them a bitthe turbo pipe runs under the battery and the plenum pipe through the opposite side. i dont kow how to insert photos or ill show u. came out pretty shmik though[/img]

i see all theses people with huge custom intercoolers, what you have to remeber is that length will only effect cooling ability, not flow.
Flow is determined by height and depth. With something that is 700x300x56 i would not be surprised if it starts to become a rescriction once you start to need a decent amount of flow into the engine.

Personally my cooler piping will be going thru the factory location on one side and coming out where the air con piping was on the other, obviously the air con has been turfed and a little massaging of the holes will be needed.

I cant really get exact figures on flow rates as im not sure on what % or the area of a cooler is fins and what is for air flow.

While deciding on my cooler pipes and where they would go, I did as much research as I could. This is what Ive found so far...

Pipe diameter should be same as the turbo outlet into the cooler, and same diameter as the throttle body. This all helps to speed up the airflow.
Minimize the amounts of bends, and only use mandrel bends.
Minimize the amount of rubber joiners, and make sure the pipes fit nicly together to avoid blowing appart under boost. And the rough miss alignment will slow air flow down.
Solidly mounted intercooler is very important, or it will move under high boost and loose and stress the rubber joins, in turn causing leaks.
run pipes low in the engine bay as it is much cooler down low.
Dont run pipes over engine, its just going to heat the pipe.
If all goes well the pipe out of the cooler should feel freezing cold after a good high boost run.

Heres a shot of the pipe from turbo to cooler on mine. The other side has being cut up and shortend for the new intake.

One more thing: have a raised edge near the end of the pipe joins so that the clamps hold the pipes on tighter and willmake blowling hoses off diffcult. you can also have dabs on the end that do the same thing.

yeh my mate that fitted the cooler said it would be to big for the size of the turbo, but her said it would be perfect for a t3.

straight after fitting it to the car, still with standard boost i made 8kw over my original power figure, which isnt too bad considering i dropped 3-4 psi.

SIRIUS just fixing up your img

Red crosses for images. You can't directly link to pbase images. You can only post the URL.

Sirus, it sorta looks like a hell of a long way the piping to the TB goes from the intercooler? I'm thinking mine will run the same as deek's piping, seems easy enough and not lots of bends

You might want to consider the std piping that came with the JD, if it was good enough for the Mitsu emgineers, then it might just do the job.. I know that some of you might say that it's all done to save money... the Starions were pretty expensive, circa 30K when new in the mid 80's so skimping on componentry would not have been that necessary, then again I could be totally wrong... :D

Could someone who has rotated their housing for their intercooler piping post a pic of the bracket they have made up for the actuator?
I just cant get my head around how to make something to hold it.

Cam wrote:Could someone who has rotated their housing for their intercooler piping post a pic of the bracket they have made up for the actuator?
I just cant get my head around how to make something to hold it.

You can use the existing tapped hole that sits near the end of the compressor outlet. The dipstick should be able to be bolted there as well. You may have to bend the actuator arm slightly depending on how far you have rotated your housing. The actuator will be held on by just one bolt but it seems to work fine.

This is the method I used, the tco6 is a cordia unit so it may be a bit different on the starion version. But it works, and hasnt come loose at all.

just be careful with the actuator arm as if you bend it too much you might start screwing with the dynamics of it... might not close the 'gate properly etc.

what i did was as cookie said, use one of the orignal bolt holes, then i screwed a nut right down on a bolt and wedged it up and through the other hole, pointing outwards from and sitting on the compressor cover. then i unwound the nut until it was putting pressure on the wastegate actuator. seems to work ok, a little bit less dodgy than just having it hang there by one bolt :?

ok im pretty shitt! at this, dont know how to put a pic in.
http://www.pbase.com/sirius4g63
this should show the pics.