Austarion

You can change the valve stem seals with the head still on, might save you a bit of trouble if that's what your planning to do. You just need a special valve spring compressor and a way to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder, preferably compressed air.

that parts ok its just a gasket... i was thinking about taking the head off (coz I can do that) and taking it into a mechanic to get them to change the seals... I just hope ive checked everything else it could be! Id hate to pull the head off again for nothing!

Whoa whoa, don't ruin that new head gasket just yet. Does it blow smoke first thing in the morning, or when it's been sitting for a while hot? then probably valve stem seals, also do a compression test to determine ring condition and general engine condition. If it's still driveable then a mechanic can change the stem seals with head on the car as noted above.

Its had a compression test and that was fine... The smoke seems to come when hot, its worst when i decerate then accelerate again, which does look like valve stem seals from what ive heard... as for taking it in to the mechanic, my budget is way blown... no way i can afford it right now:( I know its probably a bad idea, but im gana have to DIY it hahaha

Grifstar wrote:Its had a compression test and that was fine... The smoke seems to come when hot, its worst when i decerate then accelerate again, which does look like valve stem seals from what ive heard...

When hot the oil is at a lower visco and will flow around a poor seal more easily.

I think the theory in it smoking "after deceleration, then accelerating" and it being valve stem seals is.... when you decelerate the throttle is closed and you are pulling a high vacuum in the intake manifold/cylinder chamber and sucking oil down the valve stem past the seals, at the same time no/very little fuel is being burnt in the cylinder... But when you start to accelerate you start to burn the oil that has been sucked into the cylinder...

but... thats only a theory... :P

I have heard of using coiled rope fed into the cylinder through spark plug hole, then bring piston slowly up towards top dead center by hand. Then using a lever and a mate with a set of needle nose pliers you can remove the valve collets/springs, not that I'm trying to give you any ideas. btw I'd use nylon rope so nothing is left in the cylinder :he

This is totally bush mechanic style, but it's a cheap way of doing it :beer

haha that sounds dodgy as!!!

Just confirm for he U did a compression/leakdown test? & they were all within 10-20PSI, this was a new engine wasn't it? :beer

well i dont know the exact readings, but i got my mechanic to do it when he was setting the cambelt for me, and he said the compression was fine.... The engine was supposed to be all good, but the guy i brought it off has dissapeared... everything else on the car was fkd so it really wont surprise me if the whole thing is shit and needs a total rebuild haha

If your plugs arent fouling with oil, it would point to the turbo as the oil is a part of the combustion process. Are you using a roller bearing turbo, i remember mrb1 saying roller bearing turbos dont need as much oil and that could be the cause as you are using the stock feed lines on the turbo.

thats a good point about the oil feed line on the turbo... but im pretty sure that line came with the turbo, however the guy who sold it to me might have had it wrong... how do i check the sizes and find out what size im supposed to have??