Austarion

Well, I still can't make it go. Going to check the fuel pressure today.
I have changed the ignitor box, ( made no difference ) I've had the spark plugs out, ( they are ok ).
I have resorted to looking at the book, ( getting worried ),
It looks like a fuel problem, because it trys to run.
Could be the water temp sender or AFM temp sensor or maybe even the computer.
:x

So are you running the standard Starion ECU and not the DASH one?

I'm running the original JA 84 ECU, on the DASH for the last 20 months.
But I guess the ECU is now 22 years old, ( not bad for electronics )

Abalistic wrote:For about 1 week I could hear a high pitched sqweel from the motor, only after backing off after high boost. It sounded like a large vacuum leak.

Fuel leaking? Internal leak into TB? inside of press reg falling apart? illegal immigrant hitching a ride on the undercarriage? vac hose to boost sensor busted (shutup Rodger) and ECU killing the crank signal after generating 'engine not present' fault code? loud knock was diesel effect from too little fuel / too much? alternator shorting out making funny noise then causing elec system to pull low enough to stop cranking? neighbors cat still stuck on front lip and just wont die?...... OR, what flav said. hope this makes you feel better. :D

SCUM!, Where have U been! :D Good to see U R still out there.
Your scaring me more with your diagnostics.... it will take another year to check them all out! :beer

Ok, so far I have 40 Psi fuel pressure, I changed the ignitor box, spark is good, replaced the sparkplug leads, cleaned and checked the plugs.
Compression check comes up to 115 Psi for all the cylinders.
The water temp sender is the correct resistance, about 2K.
The air temp sender is the correct resistance.
The TPS is correct resistance 0 to 4k, and smooth. Idle mixture pot is good too.
I replaced the ECU with my spare and it made no difference, it starts and trys to idle for a second and then stops.
There are no hose leaks as far as I can tell, looked a million times.
The injector coils measure at 6 ohm's which is right.
The injector resistor block checked out ok too.

But as for the large engine rattle..... I pushed in the clutch as it tried to start.... and... the rattle went away! SO hey I'm getting somewhere.
:)

I still have a suspicion that it's the EFI relay. Try temporarily bypassing it by unplugging the relay and wiring the fuel pump and ECU to a switched 12v source.

You said when it cranks it fires and then dies, How sudden does it die? Immediatly after you move the key from START or slowly spluttering down?

i was gonna say something about the clutch causing the rattle. it also explanes why it stops cranking. as for wont idle. dunno. mabey the flywheel fell off? :D

i know, put it in gear, take the spark plugs out an see how hard it is to push the car? might tell u something.

im worried about the compression pressure you stated.Normally pressure should be 138-142.

im worried about gogomobile, how can you still spell it wrong after the fat guy spelt it out thousands of times on the TV?

:D

g-o-g-g-o-..........

ok, so i dont realy care. im just been a POST WHORE!!!!!!!.... :D

I would put it down to the motor is stone cold, and there is no oil pressure while just cranking with the starter motor.
But does anyone know what the compression in Psi should be?
I've got a spare control relay, and I'm going to try that soon.

The compression on my DASH engine was between 143-145psi on all cylinders while cold.

Yep, well I got my motor secondhand so I don't know how tired it is.

Changed the ECU control relay today and........YES!!! It starts and runs!
:D :D
Went for a drive and the rattle sounds and feels like the throwout bearing is stuffed in the clutch.
The control relay ( when it works ) holds in the fuel pump and keeps it running after the motor has started.

Glad I could help :D