Igniter Problem?

[Cookiemonster]

Merlin,

Thanks for your reply, on a JB the black box mounted on the left of the inition coil says "knock box". Is this the ignition control module or igniter on a JB?

Yes it is.

[merlin]

bear with me on this one. i need to check all the details thoroughly, before i post. and the folder i need is not ready to hand.
i will draw it all up, jpeg it, and send it to cookie and dekoy and charlie,
as they may be able to host it. or post your email addy, and i'll send it direct.

re the VK ecu, it only does fuel. the ignition is pure hardware, as in reluctor dizzy with bosch module, vacume advance etc.

i would not recomend a second hand unit, get a new one.

the number on the Bosch ignition module is:
9222 067 021

these modules do control the coil current (dwell current),
but not the dwell time. that is dependant on the signal shape coming from the dizzy. it also means people like Cheffman can use 4 of them to drive 4 coils from an aftermarket ecu. or, 2 of them to drive 2x twin plug coils.

there are also some other modules i suspect will work, namely:
9222 067 016 and 9222 067 017.

dave.

[Cookiemonster]

Send me the pics Merlin... I'll host them for you.

[Powerslave]

Before going through all that trouble to re-invent the wheel , why not open up the igniter module and check for dry joints (cracked soldering). The problem you have described is a classic dry joint problem. Just like magna automatic gearbox problems... many people go out and spend $$$ replacing the auto trans control module , when 10 minutes of soldering will fix it.
~If you can get the cover off the igniter , try re-soldering every joint on the PCB. Just don't bridge any out !!! Sometimes you might not even see the cracks , but believe me , they are there !!!

Good luck !! :beer

[merlin]

you are right, it is a sort of dry joint problem.
and dry joints can usually be resoldered.
however, in this instance, on 2 units i have examined, it a bit different.
the bad joint is on the IC HYBRID to the output power transistor.
the wire joins to the transistor are embedded in a sort of silicon jell.
the jell can vibrate (wobble) and after the required 20 years use,
shakes loose a wire. the jell holds it there, but with an unreliable joint.
the perfect recipie for an intermitant problem.
the hybrid is bonded to the lid, and wont come off. the main pcb has screws, but if you try to remove it, you tear the bonding wires (x10) to the hybrid IC. bastard!
you might be able unsolder the wires to the hybrid, and then remove the main pcb, but, you then have the issue of the silicon jell etc.
it might be possible to replace the dud power transistor, but, all things considered, the bosch module won the day.
you do lose the boost and knock retard feature of the standard setup.
but we do have BP ULTIMATE etc and we are into hot cars, so, no boost retard. it works fine on Emmas standard JA.
Dave.

[arnstar]

Thanks for your reply guys. It is greatly appreciated. I will inspect igniter and see if there are any loose ends.

Cheers!

[ProZac]

Still really keen on seeing this diagram...

[merlin]

ok, the write-up is done.
i tried to send it to deekoy, but hotmail thinks its too big!
post your email addys, and i will send it to you.
the full file is 1.9MB, but the wiring diagram alone is 143kB.
Dave.

[Cookiemonster]

Here's is Merlin's diagram for his ignition modification:



I'll get Deeks to post the entire article in the tech section if Merlin doesn't mind. Great work by the way Merlin!

[ProZac]

ohh, dave you always come thru with the goods :)
send it direct to zperston@paradise.net.nz please? :) thanks man.

[StarionChef]

Merlin the magician :)

thanks for the little box dave, nice work!

[RiceThief]

Thats excellent work merlin, well done

[arnstar]

Top job Merlin. Thanks for your help.

[Rev]

Just figured out my ignition module is stuffed so I am gonna change it over to this. Thanks! :D

[Cookiemonster]

Please wait until the tech article is posted. There is more to the conversion than just wiring up that circuit.