ECU (Expensive) VS FCD (Cheap) for Boost.

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
JA83
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Post by JA83 »

Mine runs 15psi, daily driven and thrashed hard, stock ja non cooler
Bruzman
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Post by Bruzman »

JA83 wrote:Mine runs 15psi, daily driven and thrashed hard, stock ja non cooler
Hearing that has fulfilled so many hopes and dream! I think I am in love with you.............. :o :oops: :wtf:

So you much use a FCD right?
If so,
what type do you have?
How do you like it?
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sucka
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Post by sucka »

Mick wrote:dont try this at home.......... or anywhere.
any raise in boost without tuning will result in a lean condition, thats why the boost cut exists.
save your pennies, get a decent brand of aftermarket and enjoy.
Curious to know why you think this.Personal experience?

After all isnt it the job of the stock system afm to measure air intake and adjust fuel accordingly. It is a closed loop system after all. Obviously there is a limit to how much the system can compensate but I doubt raising the boost a few psi is going to result in engine failure.
vr4gone
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Post by vr4gone »

Gettin Hp out of your engine takes money and lots of it.

I run
*CP pistons 9.0:1 ratio
*Manley rods
*ev1 890cc injectors (not to be confused with Mitsubishi EVO)
*GM LS3 MAF and Translator
*jaycar FCD (as you have found)
*Nissan VG30 BB turbo
*Bosch 044 fuel pump
*FMIC
*B&M oil cooler
*Sports Comp Autometer Wide band O2 sensor & gauge (a must)
*custom 3" exhaust with Hooker aero chamber muffler
*exedy sports tuff clutch

I'm running 10psi boost on 98RON fuel which gets me maybe 150-160 kw
at the crank at a guess with shitloads of torque and the added bonus of 600kms (combined) to a tank of fuel which includes spirited driving. This all cost me lots of $$$ but its reliable and I have secret plans to convert to DI soon but you get the idea. I've posted all my mods accept the wide band and oil cooler which I'll do later.
Last edited by vr4gone on Fri Mar 23, 2012 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

sucka wrote:It is a closed loop system after all.
erm, no it isn't.. unless he has an oxy sensor?
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Bruzman
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Post by Bruzman »

vr4gone wrote:Gettin Hp out of your engine takes money and lots of it.

I run
*CP pistons 9.0:1 ratio
*Manley rods
*evo 850cc injectors (not to be confused with Mitsubishi EVO)
*GM LS3 MAF and Translator
*jaycar FCD (as you have found)
*Nissan VG30 BB turbo
*Bosch 044 fuel pump
*FMIC
*B&M oil cooler
*Sports Comp Autometer Wide band O2 sensor & gauge (a must)
*custom 3" exhaust with Hooker aero chamber muffler
*exedy sports tuff clutch

I'm running 10psi boost on 98RON fuel which gets me maybe 150-160 kw
at the crank at a guess with shitloads of torque and the added bonus of 600kms (combined) to a tank of fuel which includes spirited driving. This all cost me lots of $$$ but its reliable and I have secret plans to convert to DI soon but you get the idea. I've posted all my mods accept the wide band and oil cooler which I'll do later.
Very impressive! and all with the original ECU?

The FCD Article I linked was yours :)

In the past I read your MAF Translator post, I'd like to know more and maybe also do it.. can you link me any resources?
Which MAF Translator did you buy? is it easily set up?

EDIT:
I think I found the items cheap on Ebay for mod.. $189.82 including post, not including Pod-filter, silicon connectors, etc.

MAF translator (looks the same as yours, is it tho?):
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1G-DSM-MAF-T ... 43ae462709
GM MAF sensor (factory replacement):
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mass-Air-Flo ... 415e0153ca

EDIT.2:
I just realised that the MAF translator I linked isn't that price.. It isn't a "Buy Now" it's being bid for.
thrash wrote: erm, no it isn't.. unless he has an oxy sensor?
No Oxy Sensor :/
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sucka
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Post by sucka »

thrash wrote:
sucka wrote:It is a closed loop system after all.
erm, no it isn't.. unless he has an oxy sensor?
Yes you are right. a mass flow sensing system is not "closed loop" without the o2 sensor.
What I was trying to say was that the ecu has inputs through the afm and map sensor to allow fuelling adjustment for more boost. And isnt just a simple preprogrammed speed density system.

Works in theory but maybe I should go get myself a exhaust gas analyser and find out for myself rather than trolling bruzmans thread :P
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

lol, i think you're overestimating the 80s technology :P

also, the stock fuel system runs the car rather rich at event standard boost - mine ran at about 10:1 afr on boost if i remember correctly!
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Bruzman
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Post by Bruzman »

thrash wrote:lol, i think you're overestimating the 80s technology :P

also, the stock fuel system runs the car rather rich at event standard boost - mine ran at about 10:1 afr on boost if i remember correctly!
Mine defs runs rich! you can smell it! well, as far as I can tell from smell.. It's also completely stock, so probably the same!


UPDATE:
Just picked up the 3 inch exhaust with hi-flow cat.. installing this arvo and tomorrow
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JA83
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Post by JA83 »

Sometimes it fuel cuts but not very often, no fcd
GormzZ
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Post by GormzZ »

JA83 wrote:Sometimes it fuel cuts but not very often, no fcd
yeah no fcd here either.. just boost controller and pod with no afm hooked up and so far is hitting up to 10 - 14psi.. pulls alot harder and feels like a standard turbo'd car should feel.
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Post by enthuzed »

My two cents FWIW:

If your car is running very rich on boost, it might be worth getting your distributor recurved to pull some of the advance out.

And also, check the diaphragm and your ignition timing, they'll have parts to play in how your car will perform too.

Sometimes we overlook the basics in getting our cars to perform better.

Spark plug gaps, valve clearances. The simple stuff like that.
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
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Post by redzone »

The basics, like not needing a cat on a 82 starion with the original motor...
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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