Mechanic get in here! I need help ASAP!

[Bruzman]

NOTE: I updated my post where I was answering John. It included:
# A picture of my boost gauge and Rpm's at Idle.
# A picture of my TDC and position of the Rotor on my Dizzy.
# I informed you that I replaced the Dizzy cap and rotor.

In my very last post, I realised that the EGR control Solenoid valve was unplugged. After inspecting it, I have reason to believe is it broken. Can someone please run out to their JA Starion and check to see if it looks like mine in the picture?
The Orange circle is blurry, but it looked to me like another port/plug that had been snapped off or broken. This would explain why it wasn't plugged up.


Can someone compare these things to their JA Starion? I want to be sure mine matches someones stock vehicle.

[redzone]

That boost/vac gauge isn't reading where a starion should read if it is idling smooth, it should be over at the .5 mark. Check that the vacuum line to the map sensor is connected to the right line & has no air bleeding off from anywhere, if the line is fine then I think u have a faulty map sensor

[Bruzman]

That boost/vac gauge isn't reading where a starion should read if it is idling smooth, it should be over at the .5 mark. Check that the vacuum line to the map sensor is connected to the right line & has no air bleeding off from anywhere, if the line is fine then I think u have a faulty map sensor

Thank you Red!
Only issue is, that I am not 110% certain where the MAP Sensor is........ I have a good Idea, but I probably wouldn't put money on it.
Can someone give a quick description of where the Map Sensor is? A photo if easily available would be helpful. :p

If happens to be Faulty, does anyone have a rough idea or experience of the cost of replacement or repair?

Another Reason for the Idle could be my Air/Fuel. I know it's running very Rich. Please just quickly look over this and tell me what you think:
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... 019#150019

[Bruzman]

Thank you Red!
Only issue is, that I am not 110% certain where the MAP Sensor is........ I have a good Idea, but I probably wouldn't put money on it.

Like I said, I have a good idea, but I am not Certain.
I remember being told it's on the firewall.

Here's a picture of the only things that it could be in my Engine Bay.
I am almost positive it's (A), I just want to make sure.
I also took a picture of what I believe the lines running from the MAP sensor were. It goes from the Map, to a "T" that splits between the BOV and the Intake Manifold.



Also, I have pulled off the MAF sensor in the past. I hooked it back up, and tried to make sure there were no leaks between the sensor and turbo. unsure if this could be causing problems? I was told it could be.

[enthuzed]

It's 'A'. You're getting there...
These cars are an education!

[Alspos]

In the second picture there should be a hose running from this connection (B is the wiper motor, the connection underneath in the pic) to the rubber inlet hose that runs between the air filter housing and the turbo inlet.


In the last picture, the hose running downward from the rocker cover (under the BOV) should run to the oil catch can that is located near the air filter tube. It's a round black tin with a connection in the side and a tube out the bottom that drains into the sump.

This may not solve your running problems but will ensure you don't suck in air after the air filter or puke oil where you don't want it.

[Bruzman]

In the second picture there should be a hose running from this connection (B is the wiper motor, the connection underneath in the pic) to the rubber inlet hose that runs between the air filter housing and the turbo inlet.

I asked about that from the guy who owned it 8 months ago. He stated it wasn't needed anymore. He blocked off the the rubber inlet hose, so that no air could escape between the AF and turbo.
I don't know what it does tho..
What is it? What is it meant to do?

In the last picture, the hose running downward from the rocker cover (under the BOV) should run to the oil catch can that is located near the air filter tube. It's a round black tin with a connection in the side and a tube out the bottom that drains into the sump.

Yeah I new about this. I was going to run a Air-breather filter. It's not as environmentally friendly, I know. Tho, it is alot easier to manage and looks better.

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I also noticed that the Vacuum line that goes to the MAP sensor is an acceptable fit. The "T" cross at the BOV has an acceptable fitting. Tho the other side of the Vacuum line (that goes into the Intake Manifold) doesn't seem very tight. The hose sides up and down the connection like it's lubricated or loose.
(Note: A have been informed by the Mechanic who worked on it 12 months ago, that the lower cast-iron part of the Intake manifold is different to stock. I am unsure what he meant by this. it could be Aftermarket, off a different model Vehicle or just another Stock Starion on that replaced it.)

What are your thoughts on this? Can this be making the MAP sensor play up? maybe it's my MAF sensor being faulty.

[redzone]

Havnt you checked the rubber intake pipe between the maf can and turbo yet?

[Bruzman]

Havnt you checked the rubber intake pipe between the maf can and turbo yet?

I have checked it, but I feel I cannot be 100% certain if it's leaking air. I'll go over it and secure it all up later today.

I am kind of getting the idea what the MAP senosr or MAF/AFM might be playing up. maybe it's an air leak to the vacuum or intake hose and not the senosr itself.

How hard are the JA Sensors to find for replacement?
Where can I find them? What kind of prices am I looking at?

Do the JB, JC or JD sensors plug and play to a JA?

Is it cheaper/easier to look into getting a new ECU with new MAP and AFM?

I have been told that the JA's injectors are very well know for playing up. Since I know and can smell a very rich petrol smell out the back of the exhaust when it is idling or revved, Can I rule out the injectors or a fuel problem?

[Adriano]

If the Map sensor hose has a t going to the BOV, disconnect the vac hose off the bov and block it, see if the boost gauge reads correct vacuum. That style of bov can leak vacuum very easily, as it doesnt have a diaphram, just a piston with an oring(or some without the oring)