Tacho Wiring

[thrash]

mine has C on the lowest contact and G on the middle contact - nothing on the upper contact that I can see

[enthuzed]

Sounds like you're using the import digi dash thrash. Keep going with this, Zac knows his shit and between the two of you, you'll sort it.

[ProZac]

C = Coil
G = Ground
There will also be a B, but if it's like mine, then it's filled up with solder and hard to make out, but the last terminal, B = Battery

With the tach up the right way, from top to bottom they're Battery, Ground, Coil. or in your picture, IG+ = Battery, E = Ground, IG- = Coil.

I'm triggering it using a 0-12v square wave, and it works really well.

I'm jumping the same resistor you are, first in line from the signal terminal, Red, Purple, Orange, Gold.

[mizuno man]

Yes it has been a good 10 years since I did my twin cam conversion and only now thanks to Prozac I have it operating.
I am using a Haltec p1000 which has a choice of 5-8-12 volt DPO which are square wave.
Simply soldiered in a small wire to bypass the resistor and hooked it up, you bladdy beauty it works.
I have it at the 8 volt setting although it worked with all three options, but it seemed to be closer in calabration to the computer tacho on 8 volt.
Good on ya Prozac, its guys like you who have this knowledge that make this site a success and old blokes like me who know a little bit achieve what would normally to expensive to contemplate.
Thanks man

Ken

[enthuzed]

Like :)

[ProZac]

Ditto, 'Like' :-).

Thats awesome to hear Mizuno Man. I've wired a later model ignition module into my car which outputs a 12v square wave for the tach. Awesome to know I can just hook up the factory tacho wire and it'll all work! :-).