Austarion

zippo wrote:

1320ft wrote:have just spoked to my tuner, he said a 3076 with .63 rear would go low 10's.

Now just gotta go see glen @ diff trans. To see what he reccomends for the driveline.

if the shell is stripped out and the floor deadner pulled out
a tdo5 20g ported is almost the same , will get you high tens
a tdo6 25g is like a gt35 , and will get you a mid nine ,

a mini tourque flight out of a scorpian will hold around 500hp , this box will bolt up no probs and is very light , and cheap compared to a c4 or t/350 that will also need custom adaptor plates.

the irs in a starion is no good for drag's , to fix a straight axle will not be an easy task, have a look underneath and you will soon find out.

Thanks mate.

Are you saying a stock torquefilte with a good convertor? The other option I was thinking is a Jatco.

I was also thinking Commo IRS diff or Skyrine, which are proven to run into the 9's.

Just throw a spanner into the works, I purchased a forged DOHC VR4 long motor today.

Also GCG suggested a GT3566R.

the mini t/flight is also known as a jatco , keas sold a full manual valve body for them at around $500, the converor will have to be a custom job , and the stock sigma scorpian flex plate will work

i am 100% sure it will bolt up to a wide block , dont know if it works with a narrow block you have now.
possibly the states is your best bet for the gm adaptor around $450 us, but then you need a custom flex plate around $350 us , then the convertor around $1000, this is provided you have the auto, not cheap.

a borg warner type diff built right comm/falcon will hold.
the mounting of it will have to be a ladder bar 4 link type due to the rear floor pan shape.

if you can figure out a way to make the starion shafts stronger or adapt stronger ones , the irs will be fine

zippo wrote: if you can figure out a way to make the starion shafts stronger or adapt stronger ones , the irs will be fine

zippo.... you reckon a stress relief and cryo type treatment might help the std shafts?

What about the USA 3.9 big diffs? do they have stonger shafts?

TOMSUN wrote:

zippo wrote: if you can figure out a way to make the starion shafts stronger or adapt stronger ones , the irs will be fine

zippo.... you reckon a stress relief and cryo type treatment might help the std shafts?

What about the USA 3.9 big diffs? do they have stonger shafts?

for the purpose of drag racing, and the 10 sec time slip he wants to acheive 6000 rpm plus launches are what is req. i dont think cryo will help much.

dont know about the US diff, but if you need to import one you may aswel get a custom job set up here.


i have a mate who has a scorpian and he runs 10's with the standard scorp diff welded up. next time im there i will take some measurments and look at the floor pan and see how hard it is to transfer it on a starion. im sure a simple 4 link mabe not that hard if you are handy with the tools.

Finding a Scorpion auto will be easy. I have 6 different transmission places that buy off me.

I think some re-done std shafts should be up to task.

The Buschur car runs/ran a "GM 12 bolt diff"

Anyone got any info on the diff in this car:

be careful which route you go. Do your research before u pull the trigger.
There are low 10/hi 9sec 4cyl street corollas here shifting their 5 speed toyota gearboxes
without nitros.
do u need an auto ? Ask how much power it soaks up too.

2 local 1st gen street 300zx (vg30Et SOHC); one sprays a 175 shot! big turbo, TH400 auto
the other shifts its stock 5spd, thru oe diff, no spray
They both ET 9.3sec 1/4s. Yeah, mph higher with the auto car = more hp..... but so what :)
both videos on youtube btw

G54 street starquest gone mid 10s years ago, still on stock cam. Only spray a 75shot out

the gate. welded stock diff, stock 3.45 ratio. Shifting a richmond 5spd gearbox (taller gearing too!). 1.48 60 foot. Pump gas. Old T04B turbo. Car nowhere near max'd out
VERY efficient combo = doing more using less = Smart guy

this fine example may be up your alley too
http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0 ... nsion.html
http://joedogracing.com/conquest1

the irs in a starion is no good for drag's

dead wrong..... read above.
You often hear the same comments about 1st gen 300s and nissan S13/14s, yet some street samples done low 9s/hi 8s. No good ?

just so you know, the scorp auto is a narrowblock jobbie (as are all rwd mitsu auto 'boxes), not wide as previously stated. I'd get it rebuilt and beefed up by a good transmission place before you go putting 500hp through it too. It is a 30yo gearbox, after all.

I remember seeing a widey with an LS1 that draged and the stock diff was holding up, maybe Kane knows a bit more about this Conquest ??

not all auto boxes are narrow block , and the scorp auto in the 2.6 version is 100% wide block , maybe the import 2 litre ones are narrow but not the 2.6 versions .. you need the baby 904 version , im fairly sure the us starion is the same and they are wide block

yes the auto will soak up some power in transfer , but it will also absorb alot less strain on the rear , if you cost up the price of a w58 plus the cost of the bellhousing and the cost of clutch let alone the hassle.

if you can track down an auto starion then you are 1/2 way home , at least you get the trans x member , t/shaft and auto.

auto / 5 speed is all good , but for all out drag i would be going auto.

Drag racing is not always about being the quickest. (yes it helps!!!) It's more about consistancy.

For example it's better to run 9.6's all day than running a 9.2 then a 9.5 then a 9.3 then a 9.1.

Auto's will help consistancy.

If you don't know what time you going to run then you don't know what time to dial in and you'll never make it past the first round.

Super Gas 9.90 (fixed index) is also another great class to run in.

Most Scorpion autos are narrow block, which will bolt up to your vr4 motor. Get torqueflight beefed up and use the big 8.5 inch widey style diff with billet shafts.

To me that seems the cheapest way out.

www.18u wrote:Most Scorpion autos are narrow block, which will bolt up to your vr4 motor. Get torqueflight beefed up and use the big 8.5 inch widey style diff with billet shafts.

To me that seems the cheapest way out.

I rang one of our Auto trans suppliers this arvo and they can do one for me for about $1800 if I supply the box, but he said no transbrake.

My diff guy said the std unit if it is in good nick, it should be upto the task of 10sec passes if I am using full slicks, et streets etc will bite too hard instantly.

TOMSUN wrote:Drag racing is not always about being the quickest. (yes it helps!!!) It's more about consistancy.

For example it's better to run 9.6's all day than running a 9.2 then a 9.5 then a 9.3 then a 9.1.

Auto's will help consistancy.

If you don't know what time you going to run then you don't know what time to dial in and you'll never make it past the first round.

Super Gas 9.90 (fixed index) is also another great class to run in.

I grew up around Group 2 & Group 1 drag racing, have been racing since 97 and an ANDRA steward at WSID since the place opened.

Records are nice, but winning meetings and championships are more important to me.

quest wrote: this fine example may be up your alley too
http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0 ... nsion.html
http://joedogracing.com/conquest1

the irs in a starion is no good for drag's

dead wrong..... read above.
You often hear the same comments about 1st gen 300s and nissan S13/14s, yet some street samples done low 9s/hi 8s. No good ?

Awesome, thanks!

ok there is nothing wrong with the starion IRS, what you need is the 88/89 widebody 6 BOLT type rear end, which has indestructible half shafts (these were originally released as a ralliart option part) and larger side gears in the diff, get the whole rear assembly (diff centre, torque tube, half shafts, rear axles and drive flanges) and you can BOLT IN to your JB. they are a clutch type LSD.

there is also NOTHING wrong with a GT3582R, here is one running 40 psi on a G180 sohc isuzu motor in a gemini (gem trimatic and gem diff too)



that thing runs 9.15 with no nos.. untubbed..

also, you can fit 10 inch slicks under a narrowbody starion..

*nods* :beer

redzone wrote:ok there is nothing wrong with the starion IRS, what you need is the 88/89 widebody 6 BOLT type rear end, which has indestructible half shafts (these were originally released as a ralliart option part) and larger side gears in the diff, get the whole rear assembly (diff centre, torque tube, half shafts, rear axles and drive flanges) and you can BOLT IN to your JB. they are a clutch type LSD.

If drag racing is the sole purpose of the car, then you can't deny a live axle is better. Not bashing the IRS, but given the expense of importing a late setup, a BW78/hilux/9" et al could be grafted in that gives the added bonus of extra traction for similarish coin (depending of course on skill levels of owner).