its overheating, now how to help it?

FST4RD · Post by **FST4RD** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 3:31 am

Yeah I was always led to believe that 100% antifreeze helps cooling quite a bit...
It did when I turboed my civic with the factory radiator :D

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 4:49 am

Are you sure the radiator is working properly & have you run a cleaner thru the motor to clean any gunk out of it ?? suggest you take it to a radiator repair shop and have the end tanks removed and the core roded and then use Water Wetter when you refill it

Post by **TOMSUN** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:36 am

redzone wrote:
TOMSUN wrote:I have head that if you run 100% water you will have the best cooling capacity. Anti freeze retards the ability to cool.

So run 100% water when doing burn out comps, or what ever your doing then put your coolant back in for street etc.
.
only if you're in europe, over here its anti freeze/anti boil, it raises the boiling point...

Wel that was what I thought, until I got my news letter from the ARDC once. And how there was a debate over banning anti freeze for certain circuit races because when it spills on the track,
1. It is more slippry than water and
2. It doen't tend to evaporate.

In the artical also when on to say that water is better than coolant in the ability to conduct and dissipate heat and hence the ability to cool.

Coolant is better for
1. Cold climates (anti freeze)
2. Hot climates (Anti boil)
3. Engine service life (Corrosion inhibitor)

S0LJAH, doesn't seehave a problem with it boiling. If he can shed more heat before it gets to the rev/boost cut setting the system won't overload and will be more efficient at getting rid of the heat with water...

Besides it's a cost free exercise (just keep you coolant in a container and fill it up with 100% water, inc. overflow)

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:43 pm

OLD FART wrote:Are you sure the radiator is working properly & have you run a cleaner thru the motor to clean any gunk out of it ?? suggest you take it to a radiator repair shop and have the end tanks removed and the core roded and then use Water Wetter when you refill it

its a brand new 3 row core it better not need cleaning allready

the water is quite clear, when i open the top of the tank i can see down to the fins easily

the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load

tomsun thats just a s4/5 rx7 pic i stole

im guna make a shroud and also space the bonnet and see how it goes

Post by **TOMSUN** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:58 pm

S0LJAH wrote:
tomsun thats just a s4/5 rx7 pic i stole

I thought as much...

I still want to see the burnout photos :D

JD_Stazza_Brendan · Post by **JD_Stazza_Brendan** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:17 pm

you know the condition of the water pump? and last time thermostat was changed?

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:37 pm

waterpump and thermostat are both about 2000ks old

everything is new when i did the engine conversion :D

im guna try knock up a shroud at work twomorrow ill post pics if i do

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:47 pm

JD_Stazza_Brendan wrote:you know the condition of the water pump? and last time thermostat was changed?

Maybe the thermostat isn't opening fully and is ok while the car is moving quickly but can't flow freely enough when under load
SUGGEST
1 try without thermostat & see if problem still exists if it does then it's not the t/stat
2 test existing t/stat in water on stove & see if it opens fully
3 always test new t/stat as above because I have found some
NEW ones to be faulty

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:47 pm

S0LJAH wrote: the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load

YAHTZEE! your problem is airflow related. you need more, or more efficient fans.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:57 pm

S0LJAH wrote: just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load

hoon

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:10 pm

redzone wrote:
S0LJAH wrote: the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load

YAHTZEE! your problem is airflow related. you need more, or more efficient fans.

yup im aware of that :D
am after ideas as i can fit another fan on there a single 14 is all it will take

i made up a 20mm deep shroud at work today fitted it up when i got home and it touches my damn front pulley!!

i dunno if a 10mm deep shroud is guna work is it?thats not a alot of are behind it to allow airflow

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 5:40 pm

cant notch the shroud you made??

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:17 pm

nah the bit that hits is the middle of the fan

notching it is making it 10mm deep, gotta do the hole thing

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:54 am

heres my effort boys

hopefully it does the trick, the fan looks bigger than it is cos its pushed to the lefthand side of the rad to clear the thermostat housing

Austarion

its overheating, now how to help it?

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