Tried to start car this morning, cranked twice, made a clunk and then I lost all power! Spent like 45 mins tring to work out what was going on! Turns out the car had no earth and was caused solely by one stupid little connection! For some reason the connection decided it wasn't going to conduct power anymore! Anyway fixed the problem and I have provided pics to location should anyone else find themselves in this situation! :beer
Here's where it connects
Close up
Stupid original connection causing me all the trouble!
Hope this helps someone else out odf a spot!!! :D
No power in car
Hey, ive got the same problem with my staz, i think it may be the cause of my dying alternators...
I checked the resistance of the wire, then the resistance of the wire going to the metal thing and it was un-readable because it was too high.
How did you go about fixing this problem? I tried to get some plyers and ply the thing back away from the wire but its not working very well...
I checked the resistance of the wire, then the resistance of the wire going to the metal thing and it was un-readable because it was too high.
How did you go about fixing this problem? I tried to get some plyers and ply the thing back away from the wire but its not working very well...
I just cut another one out of a dead Magna I had at the time! That's been long since replaced again with the new engine.
I used a test light to see where it had power. Like the bottom picture shows, power either side, just not on the connector. Replaced the connector and earth again = running Staz! :D
I used a test light to see where it had power. Like the bottom picture shows, power either side, just not on the connector. Replaced the connector and earth again = running Staz! :D
3 f^rkin cheers dude
That hasnt only happen to me once, but 3 F^ckin times
after the first time I didnt remember it and near ripped
my hair out, then the same thing again, only the last
time I made like the PRO and just smacked the conector
with a hammer (Showed That Be-atshe whos boss)
Now Thats A Good Worthwhile Post)
Cheers:Phil.
after the first time I didnt remember it and near ripped
my hair out, then the same thing again, only the last
time I made like the PRO and just smacked the conector
with a hammer (Showed That Be-atshe whos boss)
Now Thats A Good Worthwhile Post)
Cheers:Phil.
TORQUES-CHEAP.
- igottasicjb
- I like starions more
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 3:41 pm
- Location: brisbane
goto an electrical shop like ideal and buy a metre or so of the same (or bigger) mm3 cable and some crimp conectors, should cost under $20.
now make 2 new cables one from the engine to the gaurd then one from the gaurd to the battery, apply a thin smear of zinc under the lugs and bolts,
problem fixed for another 20 years
now make 2 new cables one from the engine to the gaurd then one from the gaurd to the battery, apply a thin smear of zinc under the lugs and bolts,
problem fixed for another 20 years
boost = the replacement for displacement
<<<PIGS can fly
<<<PIGS can fly
- Starion_Turbo
- Enthusiast king
- Posts: 898
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- Location: South Australia
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Or, buy a grounding kit, I got a cheap 5 wire kit with battery mounting bracket for $20 something delivered on ebay and installed 3 additional earths.
My starter motor used to click somtimes instead of actually turning over, never happened again since.
My starter motor used to click somtimes instead of actually turning over, never happened again since.
Powerplant: Chipped stock ECU, 2044cc, 8.5:1, head intake enlarged and polished, exhaust manifold enlarged,
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
Balance-shafts eliminated, Intercooled, TC06 @ 10psi, 2.5" high flow exhaust system and dump pipe.
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