L300 multi help

[RiceThief]

Hey woops

1, 2 & 3 will all see boost and vaccum, so when you run your brake booster line to keep the one way valve in place.

2 and 3 should be used to run your boost guage, ecu, fuel pressure regulator and emission gear and bov.

I've run 4 straight into 5 for heater and 7 i just blocked off.

8 is where i put the water temp sensor for the ecu and 9 is the standard starion temp guage.

Wastegate should be coming off your turbo and not your manifold.

[woops]

the wastegate has the one leading to the front of the turbo but also has one in the middle that leads to the inlet manifold. Is this normal?

[RiceThief]

Im not quiet sure what your refering to so i took a pic of the wastegate

1 is the hose on the outlet of the turbo which goes into 2 which is the wastegate canister. The only time you would tee this hose is to fit a boost controller.

[woops]

yeah i have one wastegate here thatonly has the one at the fron but the one on the car has another smaller one there behind it that was hooked up to the inlet.
I don;t have the one you have marked as 2.
Would it make a difference that it is a tco5 12a non watercooled.
The watercooled one i have spare doesn't even have one located on the front.

[RiceThief]

Im not sure what the other outlet you have on the wastegate is, one possibility is I remember someone mentioning that the starion had another wastegate control where when the engine is cold the turbo wont make any boost. Maybe if you take some pics someone with the same setup can shed some light on this.

[woops]

Not sure how having the manifold vacuum could tell the wastegate that the engine is cold.

Won't have pics for a couple of days cause my sis the digi.

[RiceThief]

I was thinking to bleed the wastegate canister it has to go somewhere and that would be through the inlet manifold. But i just realised the folly in my theory as bleeding the wastegate canister would keep the wastegate closed rather than open it up

[redzone]

actually the vac line inputs into the actuator on the other side of the diaphragm so it opens the wastegate earlier. theres a coolant temp controlled vacuum fitting on the underside of the inlet manifold that feeds a signal to the actuator.. ur earlier post was spot on ricey!

[woops]

Hey guys. I have almost all the probs sorted out now. I'm gonna get the throttle cable custom made. The one for the staz setup is too long and also is the wrong throttle body end.

The biggest problem is using the standard dizzy with the multipoint. What have others done to get the ported vacuum for the dizzy to see no vacuum at idle. I've tried findng info on the starquest forums on how they've done it and found nothing.

The xf throttle body i have on there has two fittings infront of the throttle body normally used for crankcase gasses. Should i use these for the dizzy or would that cause backfiring and other problems. Or would i be best to get the throttle body drilled just at the butterfly.

Or would it be possible to use the normal manifold pressure and have a oneway valve inline to have no vacuum seen. If so where would i find a oneway valve like this small enough.

Also i'm just double checking with the heater pipes. On the pics on the previous page does 4 connect straight to 5. If so where should 7 go. Or does it actually go that 4 connects to 5 with 7 connected to a T-piece between them. I don't actually have a standard setup to look at.

Thanks for any help. Hopefully the car should be ready in only a week or so.

[RiceThief]

I believe what they did with my setup when i was running the wolf 2d was to put the vac advance line in front of the butterfly so it would see boost and retard the timing but I had no advance at cruise.