Diagnostic help!

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
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SpidersWeb
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Post by SpidersWeb »

Yes that is the MAP.

The MAP sensor is the boost sensor, but it measures vac too, so 'boost sensor' is a little inaccurate.

MAP=Manifold Absolute Pressure

The power steering PUMP is at the front yes, but the power steering box is not far away from the MAP sensor. If you look down between the turbo and the side of the car, you'll see a box with two metal pipes going in the top of it below the MAP sensor, that is the steering box :)
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
flav
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Post by flav »

On my car, thats the Espresso machine.
Every time it fails i stop for espresso.
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SpidersWeb
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Post by SpidersWeb »

flav wrote:On my car, thats the Espresso machine.
Every time it fails i stop for espresso.
haha yes indeed.

With all these 'wtf' problems, its looking like after doing an intercooler, the best thing you can do for a Starion is an aftermarket computer. New MAP sensor, no more AFM, replace distro with optical unit, disconnect the vac advance all together, install coil packs and use the computer to do the timing.

I just wish doing that cost less than the cars purchase price.
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
Boris
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Thnaks

Post by Boris »

Thanks to flav and Spidersweb for helping me get into the lingo! these abreiviations are a bit of a problem for a newbie!
Cheers
Boris
Boris
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Next

Post by Boris »

Well, I hope to get out and have a long drive over the weekend to check on the status of my list of symptoms. Hopefully some or all will have been fixed by the replacement of the split vacuum hose; and big thanks will be owed to my on-line helpers. :beer

In the mean time, the stuck waste gate has my attention. Is this a common problem? I think it may have been stuck for a while.
I am assuming that with the actuator rod removed, the wastegate lever should be able to be moved by hand. It is not that sturdy and is immovable without risking damage.
Will I need to take the turbo off to get at it or am I likely to have enough room to get at it if I just remove the exhaust system? Does anyone have a photo of the wastegate area? It may help me get a feel for what lies ahead.
On the other hand, maybe I should just let it be and keep an eye on the boost guage?!
:roll:
See you!
Boris
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

The wastegate should move freely. It's just a shaft and a flap on the inside of the turbo exhaust housing. It may have rusted/stuck open for whatever reason. Fill it up with RP7 and try to free it. You may be able to get it moving. Failing that, you will have to remove the turbo and pull it apart to free it up properly.
Boris
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Sucess!

Post by Boris »

Thanks to Alpos for the reassurance. I have now freed up the wastegate! It is a bit like cutting cheese - there is some friction there but it is now easily movable with one finger. I didn't have to take anyting apart. When I put a spanner on the nut on the end of the shaft it was so tight that the shaft moved before it did. Then it was just a matter of working it back and forth till it freed up and was smooth full range. Thanks for all the friendly help! :)
Cheers :beer
Boris.
Boris
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Road test report

Post by Boris »

Well, I just got back from my test drive. Some migh think five hours excessive, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it! :pimp I did have to make sure!
The good news is that the replacement of the split boost sensor / MAP hose (perhaps combined with the waste gate now working) seems to have cured all the symptoms. The car is just like a bought one again! :roll:
A big thanks to hte AUSTARION forum!
Cheers
Boris
flav
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Post by flav »

Thats a nice ending.....
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