How much for MPI conversion
How much for MPI conversion
Yes Mal you read that correctly, im bored and thinking about doing multi point on my staz in the 12 months or so. Any ideas these days on the cost of manifold, injectors, ECU, tuning ( can u get an off the shelf program these days ? ) also would be looking at upgrading the turbo and installing my intercooler and a water injection kit.
What increase in power could i expect and could I get it done for $5,000 ?
Remembering Im very handy with a spanner and can do all the mechanical work myself. Anyone wanting to sell any of the parts listed above ?
What increase in power could i expect and could I get it done for $5,000 ?
Remembering Im very handy with a spanner and can do all the mechanical work myself. Anyone wanting to sell any of the parts listed above ?
is this suitable ?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Motec-ECU-wiring ... 19c10ffd5e
bearing in mind im not after huge hp or advanced tuning abilities. what is a good ecu these days ? microtech ? haltech ? what are people using ?
bearing in mind im not after huge hp or advanced tuning abilities. what is a good ecu these days ? microtech ? haltech ? what are people using ?
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yes you could do it for under $5K, and that'd be paying someone to do it. wouldnt include the turbo upgrade though.
I have an L300 MPI manifold here for sale mate :)
Get a Haltech sprint 500 ecu for $1099, they're awesome value for money, or an EMS stinger, or Wolf V4X.
i'd stay away from microtech, i've had customers with reliability issues. and that old motec is ok for a historic racecar but you wouldnt use it on a car you'd drive everyday as the fuel economy would be shocking (i owned a fuel only version of that 1993 ecu).
plenty of info on here how to do the mpi conversion. and get a TD05H16G from MRB1 on here as a turbo upgrade, i think it'd be right up your alley :)
I have an L300 MPI manifold here for sale mate :)
Get a Haltech sprint 500 ecu for $1099, they're awesome value for money, or an EMS stinger, or Wolf V4X.
i'd stay away from microtech, i've had customers with reliability issues. and that old motec is ok for a historic racecar but you wouldnt use it on a car you'd drive everyday as the fuel economy would be shocking (i owned a fuel only version of that 1993 ecu).
plenty of info on here how to do the mpi conversion. and get a TD05H16G from MRB1 on here as a turbo upgrade, i think it'd be right up your alley :)
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
dont waste your time with SOHC MPI just go straight to DOHC MPI either do a 4g63 or SR20
but if your heart is set on SOHC MPI
L300 manifold - cause you can then keep your cooler piping setup
and 2nd hand haltech ECU should do it!
ps. i have a haltech E6K/ignitors/coils/etc... for sale!
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=13377
but if your heart is set on SOHC MPI
L300 manifold - cause you can then keep your cooler piping setup
and 2nd hand haltech ECU should do it!
ps. i have a haltech E6K/ignitors/coils/etc... for sale!
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=13377
SR20 powered starion what have I done..... :P
got an l300 manifold as well if interested, plus 550cc injectors to go with it.. plus a range of intercoolers if required.. plus high rpm double valve springs too
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=13113
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=13113
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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holy shit its the mpi "spam yo parts" thread now LOL LOL LOL
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
is that the one i sent your way noddy?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
:o now i dont know which way to go. First of all there is NO WAY I am going the twin cam route, after reading all the hassles involved with AC mounting points, thermostat relocations etc etc. Besides from what I understand there is no way you would get it for under 10k done properly.
PM's sent for the parts thanks guys.
PM's sent for the parts thanks guys.
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Easy Vulpes, it's an Evo3 big 16g turbo, 505cfm at 15psi & rated @ approx 375hp @ 22psi. Contact Mark at http://www.gtpumps.com.au/. More info specifically Starion related here: http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
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Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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- Lil' Dorifto
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Starion MPI
I agree that you will need to put aside 3-5k for the project.
For the CPU go Autronic. Its a bit more expensive than Haltech (and others) but reliable as hell. It is also limited in the type of transducers it will accept (this can be a good thing).
Motec has a better user interface and supports a larger range of transducers however is more expensive.
Go the L300 option as most of the plumbing can stay the same.
CA18DET or similar/larger are fine for most applications.
I have an L300 with Autronic currently on my car. If you are ever in Tas feel free to pop round for a sticky beak. Hell for that sort of money I would consider selling you the car :)
Matt
For the CPU go Autronic. Its a bit more expensive than Haltech (and others) but reliable as hell. It is also limited in the type of transducers it will accept (this can be a good thing).
Motec has a better user interface and supports a larger range of transducers however is more expensive.
Go the L300 option as most of the plumbing can stay the same.
CA18DET or similar/larger are fine for most applications.
I have an L300 with Autronic currently on my car. If you are ever in Tas feel free to pop round for a sticky beak. Hell for that sort of money I would consider selling you the car :)
Matt
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