advice wanted - rebuilding engine

[Tamgesic]

I just wanted to give you guys an update :

First of all I never said this would be a track car. I seriously DO NOT need to go all out . I want a daily driver road car which may see about 100 kms per week tops and the odd long trip once or twice a year and not so important [ as i have never even been to the track yet ] is that I would like to occasionally take the Staz down to the track simply just for a few light rounds around the track but mainly to have a starion showing at the track days.
Going to the track is something I have very much been looking forward to but my MAIN goal is for my Staz to be a nice fast but not overly modded street car.

Being a mum and never having been to the track I dont see it getting to much of a thrashing round the track that often..

I like a fast car that can zoom off from the lights nice and fast or when I take it out to the beach round the windy roads I can give it a bit of a cane..nothing major .

So that being said I was looking round for the bits I needed to just do a simple easy mpi. .

There was nothing available apart from the engine mentioned at the top of this post. It is the 7 bolt 4g64 engine . Measures 130mm from the top two crank bolts which Im told is the right measurement.

I need to also let you know someone mentioned ' and by the time you spend al the money on the honeing etc ' when that person said that they must have thought I was going to spend the money doing all of that but its ALREADY been done. The engine is one grand ...that includes all the stuff mentioned in the first post [ honed, acid washed, rebuild parts, full gasket sets, bearing sets etc etc ] The guy I am buying the engine off apparently saved and saved for all the bits , got the engine all prepped as mentioned above and had planned to do the rebuild and stick back into is L300 van...by the time he got all of this done his van was too rusted to pass a wof and he was more interested in his new rotary build so lucky me gets all the bits all ready to go .

So it really was not a hard decison to decide to simply put engine back together with all the bits there and ready to go [ and very good local engineer happy to do this at a cost of between $400 and $600 ] and then simply put engine in my car . Apparently this is ALOT easier than going twin cam with possibly just as nice results for what I want and not much harder than doing just a normal mpi .

My question is : if I had bought this block all assembled and ready to go would we be discussing adding all these extra bits and pulling engine apart and having to wait months to save for more stuff ? Or would I be just be puuting staight into Staz just for now to get it mpi'd and on the road and concentrate my money towards a new computer and tuning?
What Im saying is the engine is apart..ready to re assemble with all the bits there . I dont have a big budget but yes of course always want to do the job properly . Im just not sure that i need forgies and if i was to get this block nicely assembled with all the new bits it would simply be the cost of the engine [ with rebuild parts ] and then the cost of the assmebly then it would be ready to go into staz and I am sure i would be insanely happy with the extra power from having an mpi'ed engine, new computer, a good tune and then big exhaust and tc06...even if I dont make 300hp.

What do you think?

Crshbndct will be helping me put the block in and get it tuned etc

another question is how to 'run in' a newly rebuilt block at the same time as doing your first tune ?

Any help appareciated . Many have done this and since the whole engine was avaiable it just made sense rather than just straight mpi.

cheers guys

[fugazi]

Put the 64 in as is, and start collecting bits for a twincaming of the old one!
:D

[crshbndct]

to add to tams last post, our so far tentative plan is to put an l300 ecu and loom on it with standard l300 exh manifold for engine break in, and then add turbo exh mani and turbo.

edit: and yes it is a 7 bolt crank but it is definitely a wideblock. and from extensive research i did prior to this, if we cant use an l300 flywheel redrilled to take a starion clutch, then the ev03 flywheel/starter and clutch will work.

[Tamgesic]

Not to keen on the twin cam..alot of money and work involved ..plus not to mention the cert.

AS it is this is gonna put me back a few grand .

Its true what they say about Starions ...prepare to be constantly broke!

I do hope that one day the mods will end and be all done and I can walk up to my Staz and be satisfied though??? lol or am I dreaming?

Any details anyone can think of to help with putting the 64 in would be great

[thrash]

no matter what you do, your budget will almost always blow out from what you expect. You can easily do this in stages. First stage is perhaps getting the 2.4L motor in there with the standard tbi injection. When this is running, see how much it has set you back as compared to how much you were expecting to spend.

Run this for as long as you can, while saving and collecting parts for mpi. I believe just going mpi and a tune for a boost increasewill be good to about 130rwkw? Others will correct me if I'm wrong :)

If you are after more than that, you may need a cam and perhaps a bigger turbo.. I believe people have gotten up to 160ish rwkw? still no need to a forged rebuild unless you wanna run over 14psi and expect 200rwkw.. or unless you get said forged rebuild for ultra cheap. It will save you on tuning if you can go the mpi and the cam/turbo upgrades in one hit, so run the 2.4L with tbi as long as you can.

[thrash]

oh and a side note on ultra cheap forged rebuilds.. make sure you know who's done it before you buy.. there are a lot of horror stories that I've seen first hand because a friend decided it wasn't worth forking out the money for a reputable builder because some backyarder said he could do it for a third of the price. You end up paying that third of the price and then full price again because the first time you did it, it destroyed the motor. spun bearings, rods gone through the sides of motors, gudgeon pin failures and heaps more.

[redzone]

to add to tams last post, our so far tentative plan is to put an l300 ecu and loom on it with standard l300 exh manifold for engine break in, and then add turbo exh mani and turbo.

edit: and yes it is a 7 bolt crank but it is definitely a wideblock. and from extensive research i did prior to this, if we cant use an l300 flywheel redrilled to take a starion clutch, then the ev03 flywheel/starter and clutch will work.

an evo flywheel/starter wont fit a narrowblock in rwd application let alone a wideblock, whoever told u that was on drugs LOL

[crshbndct]

Tomorrow we will be test fitting the 7 bolt wideblock flywheel with starion clutch onto a starion gearbox. Stay tuned!

[Tamgesic]

IM pretty dissappointed to see redzone's post considering I already forked out a grand on this engine because research apparently said it could be done . I sure hope the research done proves right and your wrong redzone [ lol no offense but I can throw away a grand then if it doesnt ]

No I would never get a backyarder to rebuild my engine. This guy is a reputable rebuilder up here.

So how do you run it with the tbi? what loom comp etc? and the prob is that my Starion has had a problem for months now and wont even run right with the 63 in so doubt it will with the 64 unless change to mpi as then it will basically be a new car and hopefully we will have eliminated the prob.We dont know what it is and neither does anyone else. I have gone down the list of things it could be and replaced and fixed parts etc Still with a car that runs out of steam and chokes at 3000 revs so that may not end up being a good idea?
Id rather get this fixed first but out of options . plus the engine came up so thought lets just do it . . but properly too.

[crshbndct]

i think people are getting seriously confused when i describe what we are trying to do here.

1.) no we have no intention whatsoever of running a freshly built engine on tbi. tbi designed for 2.0l is no good for 2.4l.

2.) the 4g64 WILL fit the 4g64 flywheel. yes folks, the ORIGINAL flywheel that came with the car when it was first produced. the same one that was bolted to the back of the crank when the engine was purchased by tam.

[thrash]

my apologies, i forgot that the 2.4 was either carbi or mpi..

does the motor come with an intake?

[redzone]

evo3 clutches have a massive step in them and the evo flywheel suits this. all L300 flywheels i've seen have been a starion style flat face type.. not the evo type with a massive step..

[redzone]

also tam if it's your fuel pump or fuel system blockage thats causing the problem with your current engine, it'll do the same thing with the new one or worse..

fix the current problem before doing a swap as you'll be really fkd trying to diagnose it after you've changed everything...

[Tamgesic]

also tam if it's your fuel pump or fuel system blockage thats causing the problem with your current engine, it'll do the same thing with the new one or worse..

fix the current problem before doing a swap as you'll be really fkd trying to diagnose it after you've changed everything...

I totally agree with you on that one Redzone so will be getting a new pump as will need one when put the 64 in anyway . .if that doesn't fix prob then might have to go ahead with project and assume [ and hopefully not make an ass of myself ] that its the dam tbi injection system and that will be long gone