what should COMPRESSION TEST show?

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Tamgesic
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what should COMPRESSION TEST show?

Post by Tamgesic »

What should the compression on my 2ltr Starion be?

I can never find what I need when I do a search. brings up every bloody thing lol

Sure its on here somewhere but can anyone quickly tell me what the numbers should show? asap doing one now.

cheers
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

as long as they're fairly even amongst all cylinders, the exact compression is apparently not so important, as the actual number you get is affected by a lot of things.

If i'm not mistaken, however, a fresh or very decent engine would be around the 150-160 psi mark on a stock starion.
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

ok so i got 150psi on 1 and 2 and 130m psi on 3 and 4.

thats one point

Ill now tell you what my car is doing and if you agree that i might need a new fuel pump or at least will change it with my 87 Ex fuel pump

First of all my car has been missing ever since i bought it as i drive you can here that constant miss . Ive just been putting up with that as no one can actually tell me what could be causing that .

Main problem that is now making my car pretty much incapable of taking the two hour trip I do to auckland every two weeks is what some have said may be a stuffed fuel pump problem ..others dont agree at all . . this is what it does . Try remember im a girl and only learning so find it hard to explain but will try my best..

The staz will usually drive fine for first half hour or so but the after awhile you might put your foot down a bit hard to pass a truck or take off fast from lights or whatever, possibly changing down a gear for a bit more speed/power..as you do this instead of car zooming forward in usual manner it kind of lurches and loses power, almost feeling like handbrake is on that kind of feel and then starts to alternatively zoom forward then almost bunny hop along. Black amoke comes pouring out the back and if i pull up at lights or something it wont sit there idling..itll die..unless i keep foot on gas a bit.

The most annoying bit is the power. as long as i drive up to about 3000revs nice and smooth its reasonably fine. As soon as i want to put my foot down even the slightest bit it reacts with the loss of power..

when it is running 'fine' it still loses grunt after 4000rpm

anyone got any ideas?

other thing is if i start car and have headlights on it dies as well..or if overhead lights are on they will flicker and engine will idle alot lower and almost die. I have to turn key several times before it actually turns over and then starts.

sorry about the long post ...just any help would be great.

The mechanics round here dont seem to know jack ...lol and neither do I!!
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Your compression is a bit low on the back two, but won't cause the problems you've got. Best to worst shouldn't be more than about 10% apart so you're pretty close to that. Of little to no concern for you.

What's going on sounds like leaking injectors to me...a fairly standard Starion affliction...
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
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Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

I thought it may be leaky injectors..not really a fix apart from mpi is there?
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Not so, read this:
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=12357

What more than just meets the eye? :twisted:
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

if i were in your place I would get the ignition timing checked first, before jumping to the conclusion that the leaky injectors are causing the problem.

Having said that, leaky injectors will probably end up being the culprit.. but doesn't hurt to check.
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

yeah ive always thought people say leaky injectors first off just because its a common prob..then again it makes sense but its good to know if maybe there might be something else causing probs.

so no one thinks fuel pump? Just tried ex one and its stuffed so would have to buy a bosch or walbro and would rather not if thats not the prob..for now anyway . Be great to upgrade eventually
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Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

is the ignition timing the one you check with a timing light? ..thats the engine timing ? dum question should research that one first
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

yeap, that's the thing you do with the timing light.. although i've always just given it to a mechanic to do cos i can never be bothered and I have really bad vision so i can't even see it properly lol

if you really think it's the fuel pump, have it tested.. i'm pretty sure that'd be cheaper than buying a new one "just in case" that's the problem..?

and don't use the "i'm a girl" excuse.. that's sexist :P
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

Phoned around and no one tests fuel pumps?

Heard of mechanics getting the timing wrong all the time though? but will see how I go..worth getting that done just to eliminate .

I knew someone would give me crap for being sexist! :roll: ok ill keep that in mind .

Do you think the problems are all just one thing? surely leaky injectors or ignition timing does not cause ALL of those things?

Anyone got any ideas about why if headlights are on and inside lights you have to give it an extra rev just to keep from dying while sitting idling? and why when I turn key it wont turn over?

Pick your brains? alternator?

What about changing the distributor? The ex one seems to be totally different ..anyone know if it will work in mine?

cheers
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Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

and WOw that leaky injector fix is some good work!!
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wa_greg
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Post by wa_greg »

while you are at it check your TPS
Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

you really from Jamaica ?

whats tps?
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RiceThief
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Post by RiceThief »

Get your alternator tested to see if its charging. A noisy fuel pump is usually a sign that its going, sounds more like its not getting enough volts. You can test this by using a multimeter to see how many volts you are getting at the pump.

As for checking the timing using a timing gun, its easy to do. To help though, get some white chalk or liquid paper and mark the timing notch on your crank, makes it easier to see.
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