evo #1 engine into starion
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- Big Dorifto
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evo #1 engine into starion
thats right has anyone done this converstion before?
its that i can get a front cut for 1500 buks and will cost another 1000 to be put in. its only done 71.000ks and imported from states..
my engine is tied and my machanic says it wont last much longer if i keep doing mods..
will this evo engine be better in power wise?
how much power are they pulling stock?
any help would be great thanks tomm
its that i can get a front cut for 1500 buks and will cost another 1000 to be put in. its only done 71.000ks and imported from states..
my engine is tied and my machanic says it wont last much longer if i keep doing mods..
will this evo engine be better in power wise?
how much power are they pulling stock?
any help would be great thanks tomm
Tom,
It has been done before.
$1500 is cheap for a evo 1 front cut, but there is no way it will be installed for 1k. Your gearbox will not fit without a adaptor plate and you will need a custom exhaust manifold, plus many more things covered in the new twincam section.
Do a quick search and i think you will get the drift that it is not a easy bolt in proposition.
Edit: I Forgot to mention that the evo 1 never made it to the states, so more than likely it is a dsm motor.
Goodluck.
It has been done before.
$1500 is cheap for a evo 1 front cut, but there is no way it will be installed for 1k. Your gearbox will not fit without a adaptor plate and you will need a custom exhaust manifold, plus many more things covered in the new twincam section.
Do a quick search and i think you will get the drift that it is not a easy bolt in proposition.
Edit: I Forgot to mention that the evo 1 never made it to the states, so more than likely it is a dsm motor.
Goodluck.
![Image](http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/widey_rims_avatar_copy1.jpg)
Tom 18u is very correct. You only have to as k those that have done a twin cam conversion to know it is a HUGE task. A lot of fabrication needs to be done, you will need an aftermarket ECU and tuning etc. If you are handy with a spanner and fabrication you may get out of it for $5,000. If you are not and you have to farm everything out expect closer to $10,000. I would just rebuild your engine. For a few thousand you have a brand new motor.
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- racking my brains
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man that mechanic would jump off a bridge if he did a written quote at $1000 to install it LOL
search forum member evoJB's threads, there is a lot involved in using a narrowblock in a rwd application. and check the twin cam forum section below :)
search forum member evoJB's threads, there is a lot involved in using a narrowblock in a rwd application. and check the twin cam forum section below :)
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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- Big Dorifto
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I wouldn't let my mother drive anything with a e123 engine in it. 7 bolts crankwalk all over the place which causes catastrophic engine failure (aka buy a new block, pistons, rods, etc).
If you're going to twincam then either put a twincam head on your wideblock or get a vr4 engine. Don't touch a 7 bolt engine with a bargepole.
If you're going to twincam then either put a twincam head on your wideblock or get a vr4 engine. Don't touch a 7 bolt engine with a bargepole.
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Entaran wrote:I wouldn't let my mother drive anything with a e123 engine in it. 7 bolts crankwalk all over the place which causes catastrophic engine failure (aka buy a new block, pistons, rods, etc).
If you're going to twincam then either put a twincam head on your wideblock or get a vr4 engine. Don't touch a 7 bolt engine with a bargepole.
funnily enough i dont know anyone with an early evo that's had this problem.
i think this crankwalk thing is a bit of an internet rumour tbh.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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I know a handful of evo123 owners who frequent the strip for Friday night brawls.
They consistently 'push' these airconditioned daily drivers to 7.5-7.7sec 1/8th mile ETs!
All with stock 7-bolt motors, mitsu ecu and evoIII 16g turbo.
That is a ridiculously quick, reliable, full weight 4dr sedan for so little mods
only one I've seen crankwalk came from japan with some absurdly stiff clutch
They consistently 'push' these airconditioned daily drivers to 7.5-7.7sec 1/8th mile ETs!
All with stock 7-bolt motors, mitsu ecu and evoIII 16g turbo.
That is a ridiculously quick, reliable, full weight 4dr sedan for so little mods
only one I've seen crankwalk came from japan with some absurdly stiff clutch
so for all the people spending that much money on their evo123s, why haven't they just switched to a vr4 block after blowing the first engine?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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Entaran wrote:Put a 2000lb+ pressure plate in an e123, sidestep it on launch and go buy a new engine.
Tried and proven recipe for explosion over and over again. goto team4g.com and search the topic.
my brother's old one had an 100K unopened motor, BIG clutch, did trackdays, 6K rpm launches at gatton sprints and anywhere else he wanted to for over 4 years, his one has never had a problem. steve never had a problem with it either, its still going strong.
i know of about 5 others with no problems either. crankwalk = internet chinese whispers to me..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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I can name over 20 that have crankwalked. I can also pinpoint why it happens (Crank casting issues where the main studs bolt into the block). It's a real issue and it affects almost all of the motors.
There are cases of evo's being fine, but there are far more cases of them not. 7 bolt DSM's like eagle talon's and so forth in the states also do this all the time.
As do 7 bolt 4g64 blocks and almost any other 7 bolt block.
In any case, there are hundreds of instances on dsmtuners.com, team4g.com, mgec, etc. Also dedicated sections to it on vfaq and various other places. Companies sell ways to "fix" the block, I've not heard of any with the sleeves put in actually crankwalking, but i've no proof that it hasn't happened either.
Also, as for why people with evo's don't downgrade... they do. Try and get a vr4 engine vs an early evo engine (or frontcut) and check the price difference. It's due to the rarity, they are getting harder and harder to find.
There are cases of evo's being fine, but there are far more cases of them not. 7 bolt DSM's like eagle talon's and so forth in the states also do this all the time.
As do 7 bolt 4g64 blocks and almost any other 7 bolt block.
In any case, there are hundreds of instances on dsmtuners.com, team4g.com, mgec, etc. Also dedicated sections to it on vfaq and various other places. Companies sell ways to "fix" the block, I've not heard of any with the sleeves put in actually crankwalking, but i've no proof that it hasn't happened either.
Also, as for why people with evo's don't downgrade... they do. Try and get a vr4 engine vs an early evo engine (or frontcut) and check the price difference. It's due to the rarity, they are getting harder and harder to find.
well... while there are "issues", the point is most 7-bolts don't fail.
I believe the internet blows it out of proportion. You'll always hear of the failures, but nobody hardly mentions the successes.
Any hi mileage virgin motor/oe ecu/oe 16g capable of consistent low 11sec 1/4 ETs in a full street sedan, is definitely something I would "touch with a bargepole", based on what I've observed personally. Seeing is believing ya know ;)
I believe the internet blows it out of proportion. You'll always hear of the failures, but nobody hardly mentions the successes.
Any hi mileage virgin motor/oe ecu/oe 16g capable of consistent low 11sec 1/4 ETs in a full street sedan, is definitely something I would "touch with a bargepole", based on what I've observed personally. Seeing is believing ya know ;)
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