Austarion

Hey guys, I'm ready to start putting my cam belt on and suddenly there's nowhere on the front of the block to install the idler pulley? Is there a bracket or something that bolts to the block and has the mount point for the pulley, which I dont have or something? I'd appreciate a picture of someone else's setup if possible - a little confused as to where to go from here.

You need to install the front cover from a twin cam

I bought a 1995 Hyundai sonata motor for $250. It's a copy of the 4g63 twincam. It has all the brackets, pulleys, tensioner and cam covers. And you can see how it all goes together. It even came with the cam angle sensor. You can even use the twin cam head and intake manifold. The Hyundai head is only the small port head however.

Have a look in my build thread, some pics there may help.

http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=12060

Cheers
Greg

hey guys thanks for the replies, for some reason i wasnt getting reply notifications so didnt come back until just now. it looks like most people are using manual tensioners.. do i just take them off any non evo engine, as the evos seem to go with a hydraulic tensioner?

alright, heres the situation so far..

1)I seem to still have the sohc front cover on my engine.. things still bolt up ok but im unsure if I can change it to the dohc cover... I unbolted everything but theres a bolt that looks like the rebuilder has JB welded into place, it wont come out.

2)I've been told that I cant run the dohc tensioners without using the hydraulic tensioner. I'm unsure if the hydraulic tensioner will bolt up to the sohc front cover, it seems unlikely. although I dont have one here to check

3)from redzone's build log it seems there's a way to convert the tensioner to manual, to get rid of the hydraulic unit, but no more details are given

any insight would be welcome :D

It is much easier if you use the twin-cam front cover.
Not only to mount the hydraulic tensioner but also the oil pump shaft is a different size on the twin-cam front cover so that the oil pump timing belt cog can be attached. (the cog is wider to accommodate the wider timing belt of the twin-cam)
You can use the single cam water pump (with a slight modification so that the timing belt misses it.)
However I found it easier to use the twin-cam water pump.
I dont know anything about doing away with the hydraulic tensioner.

Here are some photos that might be usefull

With the front plate on





Now the tensioner pulleys added





With the hydraulic tensioner

APC do the manualised tensioners cheaper than i could get them done up here..

redzone wrote:APC do the manualised tensioners cheaper than i could get them done up here..

hey mate, i saw you mentioned that in your writeup..

who/what is APC?
what is "cheaper"?
where is "up here"?

:D

sounds like im going to have to swap the covers anyway, if i want the oil pump sprocket to behave?

APC = advanced performance centre at Springwood south of Brisbane
Up here = the Sunny Coast an hour or so north of Brisbane where Daves workshop is located

cheaper = i think it cost $170 or something

managed to change the front cover over... the bolt that was JB welded was just holding a washer over the lower balance shaft inlet. all the cover really needed was a tap with a hammer. had to change the oil pump too, luckily still had a vr4 one lying around. pump socket sits on there happily now

i'll use the hydro tensioner for now, it looks like i'm back on track, just waiting on an idler and tensioner pulley, as no stores seem to currently have them in stock :s cheers for your help guys